Wednesday, April 11, 2018

March in Banderas Bay

Since late February we have been living aboard Ka'sala in Banderas Bay.  We arrived here from Tenacatita after an overnight, upwind sail, toward the end of February and spent our first four weeks on Dock 9 in the La Cruz marina, surrounded by other active cruisers. 

La Cruz marina with anchorage just past the breakwater, Bucerias in the background

We arrived just in time to celebrate Doug's 65th birthday with a weekend in the old town of Puerto Vallarta.

Happy Birthday, Doug!
Soon afterwards friends, Nellie and Mark, came to visit.  They stayed at a resort near the La Cruz marina where Ka'sala was berthed.   Years ago, we had promised them a sail as part of their wedding present, and they finally received it.  We had a gorgeous, sunny time out on the bay and couldn't believe how many whales we saw - at least 40 - all cavorting around - jumping, spyhopping, fin flipping - quite exciting.  It was a special day.  They had never been to PV before, so we enjoyed showing them around - even got out to Sayulita.  When Nellie and Mark left, they took an overnight bus to Guaymas, picked up our Roadtrek and drove it back to Canada for us.




Soon afterwards, we rented a car and drove through the narrow and twisty backroads and mountain passes of Jalisco to the Lake Chapala area.  We were very impressed with the beauty of the landscape as we climbed over 5000 feet above sea level. 

On the way to Lake Chapala

Agave farm - the plant that produces tequila

Gorgeous Mascota Valley

Pilgrims on their way to Talpa - we passed hundreds of them 
We drove through pine forests, agricultural areas, charming old towns and villages until we reached Jocotepic, surrounded by shrouded Driscoll berry farms perched on the western end of Lake Chapala. 

A typical berry farm along the side of the road - growing raspberries, blueberries, strawberries and blackberries - all under shade cover
We stayed with friends, Chuck and Diane, at Los Dos B & B, which belonged to a relatively famous Austrian/American artist named Georg Rauch, who died a few years ago.  His wife, Phyllis, still lives there among his paintings and keeps his studio intact. 

Los Dos B & B

Georg Rauch studio

Living room of our casita, decorated with Rauch paintings



There are a lot of expats, who mostly live in gated communities about 10 km further east, but there are also more villages. One of them caught my eye in particular: Ajijic. The town is very arty - murals, artisans, craft markets, cafes and restaurants with a lovely malecon along the lake.  I hope we go back to the area some day in our van - we saw many mountain biking opportunities - and the warm day/cool night high and dry climate was very comfortable.

Quaint Ajijic street scene

A large loom in a small portion of a large weaving studio

Colourful urals line the streets of Ajijic

The Malecon at Jocotepic - each town along the lake had its own lovely variation

Cobbled street on the way to the B & B in Jocotepic

Out to a delicious Mexican dinner with Chuck and Diane

Mural on the front of a restaurant illustrating their regular patrons

View toward the eastern end of Lake Chapala - the paved roadway ended here
When we got back to Puerto Vallarta in mid March, we had to move Ka'sala to the marina at Paradise Village in Nuevo Vallarta to be closer to 40 Love, the boat we would be crewing on in the Banderas Bay Regatta.  We waited until late morning so we could sail on the beautiful breeze that picks up every afternoon - rarely more than 20 knots - and calms down in the evening.  The seas stay relatively flat, so conditions are comfortable.

Paradise Village Resort - marina in the foreground - Ka'sala's dock is at the extreme right
Another view looking west - Ka'sala's dock is at the extreme right

Looking north - Paradise Village is on the top side of the breakwater, Ka'sala's dock is by the bridge in the distance
On our dock by the bridge - note the bicycles on the foredeck
Sailing in the Banderas Bay Regatta was a wonderful experience.  We joined skipper/owner, Joel and his wife Chris, as well as Margie, from Dreamcatcher and Victoria-based pediatrician, Richard Taylor.  We had been crossing paths with Joel aboard sailboats in Mexico since 2011 and had spent many good times together.  This year, he asked us to join him in the Regatta and we accepted without hesitation.  We spent 4 intense days on the water: one practising and three racing.  There were four other boats in our class and we had a lot of fun keeping them all in our sights.  We didn't place, but we sailed well and I, for one, learned a great deal.  Many thanks to Joel and Chris!

Valient crew of 40 Love:  Doug, Margie, Lyneita, Richard, Joel, Chris

40 Love, a Hunter 40

On the rail

In heaven:  Doug at the helm of 40 Love while the crew is on the rail, Puerto Vallarta in the background

Awards night - we didn't rake in a trophy, but the prize was sharing the experience with these great people
Once the Regatta was over we found time to re-familiarize ourselves with Paradise Village.  We had stayed here for a few weeks in 2011, just before we made our last passage to Hawaii, and were happy to return.  Not much has changed, and this extensive, well maintained, 5 star resort is still a beautiful place to be.

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