47.43 N
142.23 W
115 NM and 640 to go!
One thing about the weather - wait for it and it will change! Our rough conditions calmed progressively through the evening and night. By morning we were motoring with no wind and passive seas. We had quiet watches and slept well when we weren't on the helm. This morning I made muffins with the last of the bananas I had put in the freezer. We are warm and toasty inside. Outside the mist has lifted somewhat, but the skies are still pewter grey and the 10 degree seas a slate-jade grey. Brrrr!
At the moment we are beating into 10 knots of wind from the northwest and managing 5+ knots. We are focussed on making as much northing as we can over the next few days in order to distance ourselves from a developing low to the southeast of us. If we manage this feat, all going well, we should have fair(ish) winds for the remainder of our voyage to Sitka. We hope to arrive Thursday or Friday this week.
We have been pouring over charts and guides for sailing in Alaskan waters. Both of us are really looking forward to exploring Sitka, then gunkholing in this amazing area. In the meantime, we will enjoy the last few days of the passage.
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Saturday, June 30, 2018
Friday, June 29, 2018
Friday, June 29 - Day 16
45.21 N
143.20 W
109 NM - 755 to go!
As I write, yet another front passes over our heads. The seas are up to 3 meters and the winds to 25 knots. They are directly behind us and we run before them with 1/2 a jib and nothing else. For the most part we glide along, but occasionally we are smacked by a generous wave which makes the inside of Ka'sala like the bridge of the Star Trek Enterprise when the Clingons attack! We hold on. The good news is that we are making miles and that we should be through it by later this evening. The next couple of days should bring us milder conditions - I hope!
I did try to make bread today, but I think one of the Clingons must have stepped on it! Ha! We are toasty and warm in our pea green pod.
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143.20 W
109 NM - 755 to go!
As I write, yet another front passes over our heads. The seas are up to 3 meters and the winds to 25 knots. They are directly behind us and we run before them with 1/2 a jib and nothing else. For the most part we glide along, but occasionally we are smacked by a generous wave which makes the inside of Ka'sala like the bridge of the Star Trek Enterprise when the Clingons attack! We hold on. The good news is that we are making miles and that we should be through it by later this evening. The next couple of days should bring us milder conditions - I hope!
I did try to make bread today, but I think one of the Clingons must have stepped on it! Ha! We are toasty and warm in our pea green pod.
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Thursday, June 28, 2018
Thursday, June 28 - Day 15
43.58 N
144.09 W
122 NM - 864 to go! If we are very fortunate, we will arrive in Sitka in a week.
The sea is 12 degrees today. The water in our tanks is teeth stinging cold. The air temperature in the cabin this morning was 16 degrees and humid - clammy. We fired up the diesel heater and we are now warm, dry and toasty. Outside the seas and skies are pewter grey and misty. A cold wind blows 15 - 20 out of the west and we are beam reaching across the waves at 5.5 knots. It's bumpy as the waves pile into our side and skew the boat. Ka'sala comes back to her course quickly. We have had to fall off our track to 050 T, but we are still making good northing. The winds are supposed to calm down later today and with it, hopefully the seas. Then we will be able to close reach to regain our track of 020.
Yesterday we crossed the shipping highway between LA and Asia. Several enormous ships passed us by, one coming within 2 miles of us. We hailed them on the VHF and they assured us that they could see our AIS and confirmed the distance they would pass us by. We never did see or hear them because of the misty conditions. No wildlife to be seen or heard.
Now that we are warm, we are comfortable, and our books and films continue to amuse us. Today I will try to make a spaghetti sauce to use up some of the withered veggies. We are both looking forward to Sitka. I am counting down the days to Alaska Amber on tap!
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144.09 W
122 NM - 864 to go! If we are very fortunate, we will arrive in Sitka in a week.
The sea is 12 degrees today. The water in our tanks is teeth stinging cold. The air temperature in the cabin this morning was 16 degrees and humid - clammy. We fired up the diesel heater and we are now warm, dry and toasty. Outside the seas and skies are pewter grey and misty. A cold wind blows 15 - 20 out of the west and we are beam reaching across the waves at 5.5 knots. It's bumpy as the waves pile into our side and skew the boat. Ka'sala comes back to her course quickly. We have had to fall off our track to 050 T, but we are still making good northing. The winds are supposed to calm down later today and with it, hopefully the seas. Then we will be able to close reach to regain our track of 020.
Yesterday we crossed the shipping highway between LA and Asia. Several enormous ships passed us by, one coming within 2 miles of us. We hailed them on the VHF and they assured us that they could see our AIS and confirmed the distance they would pass us by. We never did see or hear them because of the misty conditions. No wildlife to be seen or heard.
Now that we are warm, we are comfortable, and our books and films continue to amuse us. Today I will try to make a spaghetti sauce to use up some of the withered veggies. We are both looking forward to Sitka. I am counting down the days to Alaska Amber on tap!
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Wednesday, June 27, 2018
Wednesday, June 27 - Day 14
42.26 N
145.25 N
125 NM, 986 left to Sitka!
We had a much better mileage day today, but we paid for it yesterday with the stronger winds and seas. Over the course of the night, the conditions calmed down considerably, and by morning we had full sails up again, reaching again in 15 knots and heading directly to our destination.
We took advantage of this change to do some housekeeping. Doug ran the engine for an hour to make hot water and we both had "showers". Lovely! While the engine was running I was able to use my little dustbuster vacuum to tidy up. We rinsed out a few clothes, and changed all the linens. We are feeling very clean, organized and relaxed. It is warmer today, but there is a persistent thin fog blocking out the blue skies. Tonight we will have a good dinner to celebrate. Long may these conditions continue!
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145.25 N
125 NM, 986 left to Sitka!
We had a much better mileage day today, but we paid for it yesterday with the stronger winds and seas. Over the course of the night, the conditions calmed down considerably, and by morning we had full sails up again, reaching again in 15 knots and heading directly to our destination.
We took advantage of this change to do some housekeeping. Doug ran the engine for an hour to make hot water and we both had "showers". Lovely! While the engine was running I was able to use my little dustbuster vacuum to tidy up. We rinsed out a few clothes, and changed all the linens. We are feeling very clean, organized and relaxed. It is warmer today, but there is a persistent thin fog blocking out the blue skies. Tonight we will have a good dinner to celebrate. Long may these conditions continue!
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Tuesday, June 26, 2018
Tuesday, June 26 - Day 13
40.44 N
146.07 W
126 NM to the good! 1111 to go.
The wind bent to our favour yesterday and we have been heading north on our track ever since. This morning the winds and seas picked up averaging 25 knots and we have reduced sail down to 1/2 jib and still maintain speeds over 6 knots, so our mileage for tomorrow will be even better.
The conditions are supposed to ease over night and we should have smoother sailing over the next couple days. The skies and sea are grey and it's been raining all day. However, we are warm and dry below. We have our books and each other to keep company. I'm still able to make meals. We look forward to a quieter ride and count down the miles to Sitka.
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146.07 W
126 NM to the good! 1111 to go.
The wind bent to our favour yesterday and we have been heading north on our track ever since. This morning the winds and seas picked up averaging 25 knots and we have reduced sail down to 1/2 jib and still maintain speeds over 6 knots, so our mileage for tomorrow will be even better.
The conditions are supposed to ease over night and we should have smoother sailing over the next couple days. The skies and sea are grey and it's been raining all day. However, we are warm and dry below. We have our books and each other to keep company. I'm still able to make meals. We look forward to a quieter ride and count down the miles to Sitka.
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Monday, June 25, 2018
Tuesday, June 25 - Day 12
38.18 N
147.20 W
82 NM - 1237 to go!
Finally, we are back on track and heading north, directly to Sitka. The wind continued to veer during the night and we have been sailing along at about 5 knots with the wind on our beam/quarter at 15 knots. We motored for a few hours this morning when the wind was very light, but it looks like we will be able to maintain our north heading for the next few days at least.
It continues to get cold - water is 17 degrees, air in the cabin 19. Using the stove to make night watch muffins this morning warmed things up for us. We see the occasional ship on the AIS, but nothing else. The sky and seas are grey, but the crew continues in great spirits - especially now that we are back on track!
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147.20 W
82 NM - 1237 to go!
Finally, we are back on track and heading north, directly to Sitka. The wind continued to veer during the night and we have been sailing along at about 5 knots with the wind on our beam/quarter at 15 knots. We motored for a few hours this morning when the wind was very light, but it looks like we will be able to maintain our north heading for the next few days at least.
It continues to get cold - water is 17 degrees, air in the cabin 19. Using the stove to make night watch muffins this morning warmed things up for us. We see the occasional ship on the AIS, but nothing else. The sky and seas are grey, but the crew continues in great spirits - especially now that we are back on track!
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Sunday, June 24, 2018
Sunday, June 24 - Day 11
36.15 N
146.33 W
31 NM - 1319 to go
With this low mileage you would never believe we had over 25 knots of wind all night long! We actually sailed more than 31 miles, but those were the only miles made good to our destination as we were forced to sail NW in front of the oncoming high pressure system. Today the winds have moderated, but still from the north. We are hoping to be able to work our way north and back on our track as the high passes over us in the next day or two. It sure will be nice to get around the wall!
Today is much cooler and we are now in sweats and fleece. Water is 18 degrees and the air temperature around 20. All is well aboard and we look forward to naan bread and chickpea curry for dinner tonight!
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146.33 W
31 NM - 1319 to go
With this low mileage you would never believe we had over 25 knots of wind all night long! We actually sailed more than 31 miles, but those were the only miles made good to our destination as we were forced to sail NW in front of the oncoming high pressure system. Today the winds have moderated, but still from the north. We are hoping to be able to work our way north and back on our track as the high passes over us in the next day or two. It sure will be nice to get around the wall!
Today is much cooler and we are now in sweats and fleece. Water is 18 degrees and the air temperature around 20. All is well aboard and we look forward to naan bread and chickpea curry for dinner tonight!
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Saturday, June 23, 2018
Saturday, June 23 - Day 10
35.48 N
145.53 W
47 NM to the good - 1350 to Sitka
We have decided to take a vacation from sailing and have spent 1/2 of the last 24 hours gently bobbing, without the engine on, in calm waters with very little wind. It's been kind of nice. During daylight hours the sun has been bright and warm and, at night, it has been so still that we have both slept soundly. There is a large high growing to the west of us and we expect to see some wind in the near future. If it works to our favour, we could be sailing northwest (I know it is not in the right direction) for a while then, as the high passes over us, picking up the favourable winds on its western side. (As you know, these highs rotate in a clockwise direction.) However, we have learned from the last week, that we can really only make our course plans one day at a time.
It was so calm this afternoon that we emptied the three jerry cans of diesel we carry on deck into our fuel tanks. We still have at least 96 hours of fuel left to consume, but if we use it, we want to use it wisely. Based on our progress, we could be at least another 2 weeks from Sitka. We still have plenty of water and food and we are in good spirits - well rested as a result of the calm conditions.
Over the last couple days we have seen several ships on our AIS and in the distance. The cargo ship that passed behind us yesterday was almost 15 miles away and we could see it - which gives you an indication for how big the ship was and how far we can see.
We've been enjoying as much time in the cockpit as possible, knowing these days will soon come to a close. We are beginning to feel the air is cooler and the sea temperature has dropped to 19 degrees. We are beginning to think more and more of the Pacific Northwest.
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145.53 W
47 NM to the good - 1350 to Sitka
We have decided to take a vacation from sailing and have spent 1/2 of the last 24 hours gently bobbing, without the engine on, in calm waters with very little wind. It's been kind of nice. During daylight hours the sun has been bright and warm and, at night, it has been so still that we have both slept soundly. There is a large high growing to the west of us and we expect to see some wind in the near future. If it works to our favour, we could be sailing northwest (I know it is not in the right direction) for a while then, as the high passes over us, picking up the favourable winds on its western side. (As you know, these highs rotate in a clockwise direction.) However, we have learned from the last week, that we can really only make our course plans one day at a time.
It was so calm this afternoon that we emptied the three jerry cans of diesel we carry on deck into our fuel tanks. We still have at least 96 hours of fuel left to consume, but if we use it, we want to use it wisely. Based on our progress, we could be at least another 2 weeks from Sitka. We still have plenty of water and food and we are in good spirits - well rested as a result of the calm conditions.
Over the last couple days we have seen several ships on our AIS and in the distance. The cargo ship that passed behind us yesterday was almost 15 miles away and we could see it - which gives you an indication for how big the ship was and how far we can see.
We've been enjoying as much time in the cockpit as possible, knowing these days will soon come to a close. We are beginning to feel the air is cooler and the sea temperature has dropped to 19 degrees. We are beginning to think more and more of the Pacific Northwest.
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Friday, June 22, 2018
Friday, June 22 - Day 9
35.09 N
145.58 W
83 NM - 1403 to go
(We moved to Alaska summer time today)
We have experienced another 24 hours of very light winds and we enjoyed every minute of them. Yesterday afternoon was a glorious one - warm and sunny - and we spent most of it in the cockpit. However, soon after sunset the drizzly cloud moved in again and we had no stars or moon to watch in the night. We woke this morning to similar conditions, but by lunchtime the winds had shifted to the southwest and we are now on a port broad reach gliding along at 5 knots.
The next four days are going to bring challenges as we pass under a front, then experience a high establishing itself to the west of us. We will likely be sailing every which way in a variety of conditions until we can get on the western side of the high and re-establish our northerly direction to Sitka. As Doug says, sailing is like playing cards: if you are dealt a difficult hand, the skill is to make the best of what you have been dealt. To take the metaphor one step further, the probability of being dealt an better hand is likely to follow. I hope so.
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145.58 W
83 NM - 1403 to go
(We moved to Alaska summer time today)
We have experienced another 24 hours of very light winds and we enjoyed every minute of them. Yesterday afternoon was a glorious one - warm and sunny - and we spent most of it in the cockpit. However, soon after sunset the drizzly cloud moved in again and we had no stars or moon to watch in the night. We woke this morning to similar conditions, but by lunchtime the winds had shifted to the southwest and we are now on a port broad reach gliding along at 5 knots.
The next four days are going to bring challenges as we pass under a front, then experience a high establishing itself to the west of us. We will likely be sailing every which way in a variety of conditions until we can get on the western side of the high and re-establish our northerly direction to Sitka. As Doug says, sailing is like playing cards: if you are dealt a difficult hand, the skill is to make the best of what you have been dealt. To take the metaphor one step further, the probability of being dealt an better hand is likely to follow. I hope so.
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Thursday, June 21, 2018
Thursday, June 21 - Day 8
33.46 N
146.39 W
81 NM made good - 1486 to go to Sitka
Although 81 miles doesn't seem like a very long way, we got a lot accomplished in the last 24 hours. To begin with, although we made 81 miles to our destination, we actually sailed a further distance as we wanted to make easting to get past that pesky front that was dogging us. And we did that! Yesterday at lunch we shut down the engine and were able to sail in light south east winds (about 10 knots) and relatively calm seas all through the afternoon and night. This morning the wind picked up another five knots and we are able to sail wing on wing directly on a track to Sitka. Long may it continue! Doug suggests that the weather predictions indicate we may be able to continue in this manner for the next few days. We aren't going fast - 4.5 knots - but we are going, and we are going in the right direction.
We both got good rest last night and are refreshed and positive today. A good washing up with hot water from the engine running was icing on the cake. We are enjoying sitting in the cockpit as the air is still warm, the sun is shining and the seas are still turquoise. Last night I watched a half moon set into the misty distant clouds and the stars were bright enough to sparkle across the water - very special moments.
Unfortunately, this spectacular natural beauty is marred by the amazing amount of plastic and trash we continue to see floating by. This morning Doug saw a mess of fishing lines, floats and plastic all balled up and almost the size of Ka'sala. Most of the time it is a continual progression of water bottles, jerry cans, plastic floats, bits and pieces of coloured plastic from who knows what origin. It is so terrible to see and makes me really question my use of any kind of plastic. I know it is a necessary evil - for example, Ka'sala is a plastic boat, our electronic equipment is made from plastic, etc. So maybe the point here is to be mindful of the plastic we use, how we use it and how we dispose of it. Okay, rant over, but I will be making my yoghurt in a crockpot when I get home! (Though I don't suppose I will tend a cow to avoid the plastic milk jug!)
Happy Solstice! May your summer be wonderful!
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146.39 W
81 NM made good - 1486 to go to Sitka
Although 81 miles doesn't seem like a very long way, we got a lot accomplished in the last 24 hours. To begin with, although we made 81 miles to our destination, we actually sailed a further distance as we wanted to make easting to get past that pesky front that was dogging us. And we did that! Yesterday at lunch we shut down the engine and were able to sail in light south east winds (about 10 knots) and relatively calm seas all through the afternoon and night. This morning the wind picked up another five knots and we are able to sail wing on wing directly on a track to Sitka. Long may it continue! Doug suggests that the weather predictions indicate we may be able to continue in this manner for the next few days. We aren't going fast - 4.5 knots - but we are going, and we are going in the right direction.
We both got good rest last night and are refreshed and positive today. A good washing up with hot water from the engine running was icing on the cake. We are enjoying sitting in the cockpit as the air is still warm, the sun is shining and the seas are still turquoise. Last night I watched a half moon set into the misty distant clouds and the stars were bright enough to sparkle across the water - very special moments.
Unfortunately, this spectacular natural beauty is marred by the amazing amount of plastic and trash we continue to see floating by. This morning Doug saw a mess of fishing lines, floats and plastic all balled up and almost the size of Ka'sala. Most of the time it is a continual progression of water bottles, jerry cans, plastic floats, bits and pieces of coloured plastic from who knows what origin. It is so terrible to see and makes me really question my use of any kind of plastic. I know it is a necessary evil - for example, Ka'sala is a plastic boat, our electronic equipment is made from plastic, etc. So maybe the point here is to be mindful of the plastic we use, how we use it and how we dispose of it. Okay, rant over, but I will be making my yoghurt in a crockpot when I get home! (Though I don't suppose I will tend a cow to avoid the plastic milk jug!)
Happy Solstice! May your summer be wonderful!
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Wednesday, June 20, 2018
Wednesday, June 20 - Day 7
32.34 N
148.44 W
76 NM to the good - 1567 to go to Sitka
We've been at sea a week now, though it seems to me like we have been here for a very long time. We started off with great winds and speeds and have slowed right down. We are motoring and have been doing so since yesterday afternoon. We found ourselves with no wind and decided to take the gamble to catch them where they were predicted to be. The seas have been rolly but not high. We have passed in and out of fog and sunshine. The water temperature has dropped to 20 degrees, but the air is warm, and we are beginning to pick up light winds coming from the southeast. These are what we need to sail north. Doug has decided we shall use the drifter to try to make as much northing as we can with 10 knots of wind or less behind us. We are fine to take it slower (though frustrating) because we have plenty of water and plenty of food. As for diesel consumption - we have about 5 days worth aboard and we will have used one of those days.
With the engine on we are enjoying things like totally charged batteries, which means, in turn, a cold fridge, being able to use all our electronic toys, watch movies, have hot water. On the negative side, our hearing has dulled with the consistent throb of the engine. Learning how to be patient may be good for us!
We are starting to notice more and more trash in the ocean. We can't stick our head out without seeing a piece of plastic float by. It may be the size of a quarter, or as big as a crate, or a pop bottle. I hate to think where all this stuff comes to rest because it sure doesn't sink!
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148.44 W
76 NM to the good - 1567 to go to Sitka
We've been at sea a week now, though it seems to me like we have been here for a very long time. We started off with great winds and speeds and have slowed right down. We are motoring and have been doing so since yesterday afternoon. We found ourselves with no wind and decided to take the gamble to catch them where they were predicted to be. The seas have been rolly but not high. We have passed in and out of fog and sunshine. The water temperature has dropped to 20 degrees, but the air is warm, and we are beginning to pick up light winds coming from the southeast. These are what we need to sail north. Doug has decided we shall use the drifter to try to make as much northing as we can with 10 knots of wind or less behind us. We are fine to take it slower (though frustrating) because we have plenty of water and plenty of food. As for diesel consumption - we have about 5 days worth aboard and we will have used one of those days.
With the engine on we are enjoying things like totally charged batteries, which means, in turn, a cold fridge, being able to use all our electronic toys, watch movies, have hot water. On the negative side, our hearing has dulled with the consistent throb of the engine. Learning how to be patient may be good for us!
We are starting to notice more and more trash in the ocean. We can't stick our head out without seeing a piece of plastic float by. It may be the size of a quarter, or as big as a crate, or a pop bottle. I hate to think where all this stuff comes to rest because it sure doesn't sink!
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Tuesday, June 19, 2018
Tuesday, June 19 - Day 6
31 42 N
150 30 W
60 NM made good to Sitka - 1643 to go
We didn't do so well on Day 6. The rain we had the night before was our indication that the quasi stationary front that has been dogging us, passed over us. As a result, late yesterday morning we went from confused winds and seas to strong winds and seas coming at us from the north. We had no choice but to bear off on a heading of 90 true. Very soon we had rolled away the jib, hoisted the staysail and double reefed the main. We were relatively comfortable, but it was very noisy and we were quite frustrated that we would have to endure these conditions for little gain. However, as the night progressed, the winds gradually became quite light and by morning we found ourselves becalmed, bobbing around in a rolly sea. Then the sun broke through the fog.
What to do? Doug went back to his weather analysis using weather faxes from NOAA and grib files and postulated that if we were to motor ENE for the next 6 hours, we might actually be able to get back into the southern winds coming off the front in conjunction with the high to the east of us. If we could do that, there would be a very likely possibility of having those winds driving us in the northerly direction we needed to go. If we could not find those winds, we could be wallowing around in these unsettled conditions until the front disappates, or worse, be stuck in the middle of a windless high. (When you do a long passage like this one, no wind is actually worse than too much wind because it means you are going nowhere and using up your resources). We are crossing fingers and toes that the plan works.
Otherwise, the muffins I baked yesterday did take some of the dampness out of the inside of the boat and the little bit of sun we had this morning helped as well. We are in good spirits and comfortable and in the groove!
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150 30 W
60 NM made good to Sitka - 1643 to go
We didn't do so well on Day 6. The rain we had the night before was our indication that the quasi stationary front that has been dogging us, passed over us. As a result, late yesterday morning we went from confused winds and seas to strong winds and seas coming at us from the north. We had no choice but to bear off on a heading of 90 true. Very soon we had rolled away the jib, hoisted the staysail and double reefed the main. We were relatively comfortable, but it was very noisy and we were quite frustrated that we would have to endure these conditions for little gain. However, as the night progressed, the winds gradually became quite light and by morning we found ourselves becalmed, bobbing around in a rolly sea. Then the sun broke through the fog.
What to do? Doug went back to his weather analysis using weather faxes from NOAA and grib files and postulated that if we were to motor ENE for the next 6 hours, we might actually be able to get back into the southern winds coming off the front in conjunction with the high to the east of us. If we could do that, there would be a very likely possibility of having those winds driving us in the northerly direction we needed to go. If we could not find those winds, we could be wallowing around in these unsettled conditions until the front disappates, or worse, be stuck in the middle of a windless high. (When you do a long passage like this one, no wind is actually worse than too much wind because it means you are going nowhere and using up your resources). We are crossing fingers and toes that the plan works.
Otherwise, the muffins I baked yesterday did take some of the dampness out of the inside of the boat and the little bit of sun we had this morning helped as well. We are in good spirits and comfortable and in the groove!
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Monday, June 18, 2018
Monday, June 18 - Day 5
31.25 N
152.05 W
114 NM, 637 made good and 1703 NM to go!
We've had a rainy night and experienced more rain in the last 24 hours than we have in the last year! I suppose we had better get used to it again as we are returning to the Pacific Northwest! It is a gentle introduction for, although it is wet, it is warm. Although I wear my wet weather gear on watch, I am in my bare feet. I don't think I will be able to that for much longer!
We continue with the wind from the southeast on our quarter. During the night it was quite gusty (15 - 25 knots) and we were up and down from the cockpit reefing/unreefing sails and adjusting the self steering device. It is fairly damp and humid in the cabin today so in a little while I will bake another pan of muffins to dry things out a bit. We don't actually have a wet locker, so we transfer jackets to drip in the head, then hang from the bar in the main salon. Not the tidy Ka'sala we are used to by far!
We seem to be stuck under the quasi stationary front which brings these wet conditions. We will likely be staying in them until it dissipates sometime over the next couple days. Then? We aren't sure, but hope we can connect with the western side of the high so we can go more northerly in dryer conditions.
Fresh stores seem to have stabilized. I have gotten rid of everything that spoiled quickly, but still have plenty of apples and oranges, as well as pineapple and a melon. When that's done we have a case of fruit cocktail and lots of dried fruit. My larder is stocked with tins of vegetables that I can easily add to anything I make. However, I was surprised to find some of my long life milk had solidified and there was a weevil or two in the whole wheat flour!! (more protein - haha!)
All is well with the soggy sailors!
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152.05 W
114 NM, 637 made good and 1703 NM to go!
We've had a rainy night and experienced more rain in the last 24 hours than we have in the last year! I suppose we had better get used to it again as we are returning to the Pacific Northwest! It is a gentle introduction for, although it is wet, it is warm. Although I wear my wet weather gear on watch, I am in my bare feet. I don't think I will be able to that for much longer!
We continue with the wind from the southeast on our quarter. During the night it was quite gusty (15 - 25 knots) and we were up and down from the cockpit reefing/unreefing sails and adjusting the self steering device. It is fairly damp and humid in the cabin today so in a little while I will bake another pan of muffins to dry things out a bit. We don't actually have a wet locker, so we transfer jackets to drip in the head, then hang from the bar in the main salon. Not the tidy Ka'sala we are used to by far!
We seem to be stuck under the quasi stationary front which brings these wet conditions. We will likely be staying in them until it dissipates sometime over the next couple days. Then? We aren't sure, but hope we can connect with the western side of the high so we can go more northerly in dryer conditions.
Fresh stores seem to have stabilized. I have gotten rid of everything that spoiled quickly, but still have plenty of apples and oranges, as well as pineapple and a melon. When that's done we have a case of fruit cocktail and lots of dried fruit. My larder is stocked with tins of vegetables that I can easily add to anything I make. However, I was surprised to find some of my long life milk had solidified and there was a weevil or two in the whole wheat flour!! (more protein - haha!)
All is well with the soggy sailors!
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Sunday, June 17, 2018
Sunday, June 17 - Day 4
29.53N
154.38W
121 NM covered, 1817 to go!
Even though we have only completed day 4, the days are beginning to blend together and the routines are seeming normal. In the last 24 hours we have continued with 15 knots from the southeast, sailing on a beam reach on 045 true at 6 knots. That could change in the next 24 hours as a front coming from the west may overtake us, bringing lighter, more northerly winds. So far we have managed to stay ahead of the front but the barometer is slowly dropping which is not a good sign. We wish we could be a few degrees farther east at the moment so we could continue traveling northeast with the high. We will just take it one day at a time. So we download weather faxes and grib wind reports and trim the sails and wait to see the outcome. The last couple days have been overcast and humid, but cooler. The sky is grey and the seas are grey. We've had regular rain showers - all associated with the slow moving front.
Our spirits are good, we are comfortable and we are on our way home!
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154.38W
121 NM covered, 1817 to go!
Even though we have only completed day 4, the days are beginning to blend together and the routines are seeming normal. In the last 24 hours we have continued with 15 knots from the southeast, sailing on a beam reach on 045 true at 6 knots. That could change in the next 24 hours as a front coming from the west may overtake us, bringing lighter, more northerly winds. So far we have managed to stay ahead of the front but the barometer is slowly dropping which is not a good sign. We wish we could be a few degrees farther east at the moment so we could continue traveling northeast with the high. We will just take it one day at a time. So we download weather faxes and grib wind reports and trim the sails and wait to see the outcome. The last couple days have been overcast and humid, but cooler. The sky is grey and the seas are grey. We've had regular rain showers - all associated with the slow moving front.
Our spirits are good, we are comfortable and we are on our way home!
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Saturday, June 16, 2018
Saturday, June 16: Day 3
29.00 N
155.47 W
131 nautical miles on Day 3, for a total of 402 and 1938 to go!
We have been making good time and the conditions continue in our favour. We are making a bit more easting than we had at first planned, but because of a slow moving front to the west of us, have decided to stay to the east of our track and in the favourable winds. Right now we are beam reaching and averaging 6.5 knots in approximately 20 knots of wind from the south east. Based on weather information Doug has decided we should stay on this course, if we can, for the next several days.
I think we are into the passage making routine again. The watches seem to come naturally and I am feeling a little more relaxed. I'm reading a book now and last night I watched a film. I made a quiche yesterday and tonight I will try for pizza. We've decided muffins on night watch beat granola bars any day!
On Doug's watch this morning a good sized squall bore down on us bringing stronger winds and a good dousing of rain. A flying fish managed to get itself entangled in one of the mainsail reefs and couldn't be freed until later in the morning, poor thing. Other than that - no wild life, and no other boats.
I'm trying to concentrate on the passage on a day by day basis and not think too much of life once we arrive. Time seems to move quicker that way, though we have done exceedingly well for three days at sea!
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155.47 W
131 nautical miles on Day 3, for a total of 402 and 1938 to go!
We have been making good time and the conditions continue in our favour. We are making a bit more easting than we had at first planned, but because of a slow moving front to the west of us, have decided to stay to the east of our track and in the favourable winds. Right now we are beam reaching and averaging 6.5 knots in approximately 20 knots of wind from the south east. Based on weather information Doug has decided we should stay on this course, if we can, for the next several days.
I think we are into the passage making routine again. The watches seem to come naturally and I am feeling a little more relaxed. I'm reading a book now and last night I watched a film. I made a quiche yesterday and tonight I will try for pizza. We've decided muffins on night watch beat granola bars any day!
On Doug's watch this morning a good sized squall bore down on us bringing stronger winds and a good dousing of rain. A flying fish managed to get itself entangled in one of the mainsail reefs and couldn't be freed until later in the morning, poor thing. Other than that - no wild life, and no other boats.
I'm trying to concentrate on the passage on a day by day basis and not think too much of life once we arrive. Time seems to move quicker that way, though we have done exceedingly well for three days at sea!
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Friday, June 15, 2018
Friday, June 15: Day 2
27.16 N
157.14W
146 nautical miles covered, 271 in total - 2069 to go
Conditions remained fairly steady over Day 2, with winds and seas moderating slightly. We are being helped along by a current that seems to be up to one knot at times - lovely! It is quite warm and humid, and the skies are overcast. There are squalls around and we are kind of hoping we may see one pass overhead to cool things down, and wash the salt off Ka'sala, as the decks and cockpit are greasy with it. Doug predicts these conditions to persist for the next 24 hours or so.
To the Northwest is a cold front associated with a frontal low moving away from us, and the Pacific High is generating winds from the southeast. We are hoping to keep these winds on our starboard quarter and sail more or less north.
Our ideal course is the great circle route which currently is 020 degrees true to Sitka (57 05N 135 23W)- meaning it is the most direct route - the way the gull flies. At the moment, we are just to the east of it and tracking about 030 T to keep a good angle on the wind. We are sailing along averaging about 5.5 knots. I am beginning to think of 020 N as HWY20 to Alaska and, all going well, we will be able to stay on it with few diversions.
Last evening a very large seabird decided to roost on our bow and spent the whole night. What a magnificent creature! It was the size of a small turkey with pristine white feathers trimmed in black. Below its bright black eyes was a long powder blue beak and its webbed feet were a brilliant orange. No. I am not making this up. I took pictures. Steve will know what kind of bird this is!
The bananas aren't doing very well and some of them fell victim to muffins this morning. We will appreciate them on our night watches! Overall the fresh produce does not seem to be doing as well as the stuff I had bought in Mexico. I think this is because most of it was refrigerated and if you can't keep it that way, it quickly rots. Not to worry, though, when the fresh is finished, we have plenty of dried and canned stores.
Not quite back into the routine yet, but close.
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157.14W
146 nautical miles covered, 271 in total - 2069 to go
Conditions remained fairly steady over Day 2, with winds and seas moderating slightly. We are being helped along by a current that seems to be up to one knot at times - lovely! It is quite warm and humid, and the skies are overcast. There are squalls around and we are kind of hoping we may see one pass overhead to cool things down, and wash the salt off Ka'sala, as the decks and cockpit are greasy with it. Doug predicts these conditions to persist for the next 24 hours or so.
To the Northwest is a cold front associated with a frontal low moving away from us, and the Pacific High is generating winds from the southeast. We are hoping to keep these winds on our starboard quarter and sail more or less north.
Our ideal course is the great circle route which currently is 020 degrees true to Sitka (57 05N 135 23W)- meaning it is the most direct route - the way the gull flies. At the moment, we are just to the east of it and tracking about 030 T to keep a good angle on the wind. We are sailing along averaging about 5.5 knots. I am beginning to think of 020 N as HWY20 to Alaska and, all going well, we will be able to stay on it with few diversions.
Last evening a very large seabird decided to roost on our bow and spent the whole night. What a magnificent creature! It was the size of a small turkey with pristine white feathers trimmed in black. Below its bright black eyes was a long powder blue beak and its webbed feet were a brilliant orange. No. I am not making this up. I took pictures. Steve will know what kind of bird this is!
The bananas aren't doing very well and some of them fell victim to muffins this morning. We will appreciate them on our night watches! Overall the fresh produce does not seem to be doing as well as the stuff I had bought in Mexico. I think this is because most of it was refrigerated and if you can't keep it that way, it quickly rots. Not to worry, though, when the fresh is finished, we have plenty of dried and canned stores.
Not quite back into the routine yet, but close.
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Thursday, June 14, 2018
Thursday, June 14 - Kauai to Alaska: Day 1
25.21N
158.48W
125 nautical miles, only 2215 left to go to Sitka!
We left Hanalei Bay yesterday morning at approximately 7am. Soon as we had cleared the bay we were into moderate trade winds blowing a steady 20 knots from the East. So we bore off and sailed north on a beam reach through the rough seas. As the night progressed, the wind veered, and we were able to sail more comfortably. By this morning, the winds had dropped to 15 knots and the seas also calmed down. We were then able to sail close reaching on our course of 020 True. We hope to continue to be able to make easting, while still progressing northwards over the next few days. There is a low pressure system to the northwest of us bringing strong winds, but we should be able to avoid them if we stay to the east of our track. The Pacific High is well defined to the north east of us and we are hoping to ride north on its clockwise winds.
We keep track of our progress twice a day: at 0300 UTC (which is 5pm Hawaii time) and 1500 UTC (5am local time) to correspond with our check in with the Pacific Seafarer's Net at 0300 UTC. As a result, although I have posted a distance of 125 NM in our first day, it is actually in our first 22 hours - this distance is also miles made good on our track.
I know the last two paragraphs were technical, but I know some of you enjoy that stuff. As far as crew wellness is concerned, we are both happy to finally be on our way. Doug is enjoying the planning and strategizing and I am just working at keeping my anxieties under control! It is beautiful out here! The sky and seas are torquoise blue. It's 30 degrees and the water temperature is 25 degrees. Ka'sala is sailing along beautifully considering the conditions. We have lots of food, water and diesel. We are healthy (well, maybe sore shoulders and a sore back) and we are closing the circle of our sailing dream. Who could ask for anything more?
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158.48W
125 nautical miles, only 2215 left to go to Sitka!
We left Hanalei Bay yesterday morning at approximately 7am. Soon as we had cleared the bay we were into moderate trade winds blowing a steady 20 knots from the East. So we bore off and sailed north on a beam reach through the rough seas. As the night progressed, the wind veered, and we were able to sail more comfortably. By this morning, the winds had dropped to 15 knots and the seas also calmed down. We were then able to sail close reaching on our course of 020 True. We hope to continue to be able to make easting, while still progressing northwards over the next few days. There is a low pressure system to the northwest of us bringing strong winds, but we should be able to avoid them if we stay to the east of our track. The Pacific High is well defined to the north east of us and we are hoping to ride north on its clockwise winds.
We keep track of our progress twice a day: at 0300 UTC (which is 5pm Hawaii time) and 1500 UTC (5am local time) to correspond with our check in with the Pacific Seafarer's Net at 0300 UTC. As a result, although I have posted a distance of 125 NM in our first day, it is actually in our first 22 hours - this distance is also miles made good on our track.
I know the last two paragraphs were technical, but I know some of you enjoy that stuff. As far as crew wellness is concerned, we are both happy to finally be on our way. Doug is enjoying the planning and strategizing and I am just working at keeping my anxieties under control! It is beautiful out here! The sky and seas are torquoise blue. It's 30 degrees and the water temperature is 25 degrees. Ka'sala is sailing along beautifully considering the conditions. We have lots of food, water and diesel. We are healthy (well, maybe sore shoulders and a sore back) and we are closing the circle of our sailing dream. Who could ask for anything more?
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Tuesday, June 12, 2018
Hanalei Bay
22.20
N
159.56
W
We
arrived in Hanalei Bay from Honolulu at 9am on Sunday morning (June 10) after
close reaching through 25 knot trade winds. Not fun - especially on the
first day out – but we made it through.
The reward is to be anchored in this gorgeous place on the northern
shore of Kauai. To the west of us is a
ridge of steep mountains, lush green with jungle and cascading waterfalls.
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| Ka'sala is the last boat on the right |
At the head of the bay is two miles of
pristine white beach with the funky village of Hanalei behind.
To the east are a small river and a long pier
– once the loading point for the rice that used to be exported from here.
The water in the bay is turquoise blue and 25
degrees. There are not many tourists and
there is no hustle and bustle. What a
lovely way to relax for a few days before continuing on our northern passage!
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| Ka'sala is mid left |
Yesterday
we launched our kayaks to explore the river.
As we entered we noticed enormous bushes, at least 20 feet high, covered
with yellow hibiscus-looking flowers.
Floating along the river’s surface were similar flowers, but these were
coral in colour.
The bushes gave way to
trees, grasses and other vegetation, most of which I have never seen before,
giving it a very other worldly appearance.
We followed it for about 3 miles when it narrowed, and abruptly ended in
a grove of bamboo.
Along the way we
could hear the sounds of strange insects and birds on the riverbanks, but only
saw an odd red-billed duck-like creature and a small turtle.
We
paddled back out to the bay, beached our kayaks and strolled into the
village. There is a small central core
of quaint shops, cafes and markets and we found an unusual place to have lunch in
a classroom of the old school.
Afterward
we strolled up and down the 2 mile, powder sand beach, enjoying the incredible
mountain views, before returning to Ka’sala.
This
place is a little wild. The weather is
constantly changing. One minute we are
in brilliant sunshine, the next in misty rain, followed by a rainbow.
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| Ka'sala at anchor at Hanalei Bay |
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| Outrigger canoes |
The sunsets are spectacular and the light and
clouds that play along the mountain ridges are amazing to watch.
It has been windy with over 20 knots gusting
through the anchorage during the day – no doubt a result of the strong trades
and the mountainous landscape.
In
addition to exploring this place we have also completed all the last minute
details to get Ka’sala ready for her next long passage. Our bumpy 24 hour trip here pointed out to us
a few things that needed stowing! We are now more than ready to go and will
leave right after breakfast tomorrow (June 13). The trade winds are supposed to
moderate, so we hope our first few days won’t be as rough as the passage
here. The projected weather forecast
continues to look positive for the next week or so and we can only hope that it
continues for us for all the 2430 nautical miles to Alaska!
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| Overview of Hanalei Bay - borrowed from the internet |
Friday, June 8, 2018
Goodbye Hawaii
We have been in Honolulu for a little over three weeks and we are more than ready to continue on our journey home. We have been very well looked after by the Hawaii Yacht Club and have appreciated its central location for accessing the city, but it is time to move on. After breakfast, on Saturday June 9, we will sail out of the Ala Wai basin and head for the Ko Olina marina on the southwestern side of Oahu to fill up with diesel. We are considering spending the night at anchor at Poka I, a bay a little further north from there, but if the conditions are condusive, we will reach across to the island of Kauai and Hanalei Bay, approximately 80 nauticual miles further on.
Hanalei Bay has been a traditional jumping off point for cruisers heading north for many years. It is a beautiful, large round bay surrounded by steep green hills and cascading waterfalls. We have been told that you feel like you are in Polynesia when you are anchored there. There are some good beaches and a small town behind the surf. We hope its laid-back atmosphere will be very relaxing for us after the hustle and bustle of Honolulu. Additionally, the clear, warm waters will give Doug a chance to dive on the hull to make sure everything is in order below. The trade winds are predicted to relax mid week, so our plan is to leave for Sitka on Tuesday or Wednesday.
The passage north is approximately 2700 nauticual miles. It will be quite different from our straight-line passage from Mexico. We will likely sail due north until we are above at least 40 degrees north, then start easting toward Sitka which sits at 57.05N and 135.33W. Our heading will be dependent on the North Pacific high - an area we want to avoid because it has little wind. As it is a circular flow, we hope to sail clockwise along its outer fringes. As we leave Hawaii the wind will likely be on our beam, then gradually veer to our aft quarter where it will push us all the way to Sitka. Of course, that description is incredibly simplistic and each day's conditions will dictate our point of sail.
Another big difference between the two passages will be temperature. We sailed to Hawaii in our shorts and bathing suits. By the time we reach 35 degrees north we will be in our woolies and soon after that our Dickensen diesel heater will be on full time. The ocean temperatures will drop from 24 degrees to a little over 10 degrees celcius! We could encounter fog. We have a greater chance of encountering higher winds and higher seas, though the time of year we are making this passage is optimum for avoiding these conditions. Ka'sala is ready - the boat was made for this passage - and we are as ready as we can be. I, for one, will be so glad to see the coastal mountains and the great forests again!
As I did on the last passage, I will be posting to the blog daily from our SSB radio. As before, we will also be checking into the Pacific Seafarer's Net each day. Don't forget, if you don't hear from us in a day or two, it is likely technical difficulties. We are not aware of any other sailboat which is leaving at the same time as us, but we may meet some in Hanalei Bay. We do know of three who have been making the passage over the last month - one about to arrive in Sitka, the other half way to Bellingham and another who left at the beginning of this week. I am sure there will be others.
For the next two days we will be doing all the last minute chores such as buying provisions and storing them, laundry, filling water, storing canvas and bicycles and making Ka'sala into the ocean going vessel she is supposed to be. North America! Here we come!
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| Kauai is the island at the upper left and Hanalei Bay is on its north shore |
Hanalei Bay has been a traditional jumping off point for cruisers heading north for many years. It is a beautiful, large round bay surrounded by steep green hills and cascading waterfalls. We have been told that you feel like you are in Polynesia when you are anchored there. There are some good beaches and a small town behind the surf. We hope its laid-back atmosphere will be very relaxing for us after the hustle and bustle of Honolulu. Additionally, the clear, warm waters will give Doug a chance to dive on the hull to make sure everything is in order below. The trade winds are predicted to relax mid week, so our plan is to leave for Sitka on Tuesday or Wednesday.
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| Lifted from the internet - hope it's as nice as this! |
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| We won't be sailing "as the crow flies"! |
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| A cheery little flame will burn in the grate just below the tile |
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| Sitka, Alaska |
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| Ka'sala is ready to go - Doug repairs and perfects the main track |
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| Lots of draft beer was sampled |
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| Without our bicycles we would have been boat bound |
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| Surf's up - every dat! |
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| Our home away from home - Hawaii Yacht Club |
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| A quiet sea access tucked away beyond Waikiki |
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| Diamond Head by land |
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| Ka'sala's exclusive berth these last three weeks - note all the toys! |
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| Magnificent fireworks every Friday night |
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