Elphin Cove - July 20, 2018

Almost 15 months have passed since we arrived back in the Comox Valley after our three years in Mexico.  I was fairly diligent about keeping up with the blog, but lost it completely by the time we reached Glacier Bay, Alaska and, as you have probably noticed, haven’t posted since.  Well, I am going to try to rectify that over the next little while.  Thankfully, I kept a good written journal, took lots of pictures and traced our journey home through Alaska and the northern British Columbia coast on maps.  The memories of this part of our adventure are so vivid it will not be difficult to recount them.

Elfin Cove

After we left Pelican, we motored up Lisianski Strait, hung a right into Cross Straits, then slipped into Elphin Cove.  We began in windless fog and rain, but by the time we arrived in the late morning, the clouds had lifted and we were treated to a glorious, sunny afternoon.  As we approached, the transient dock appeared full, but just past the crowding of little fish boats at the end of the pier, Doug managed to manoeuvre us into a tiny space.  

The fishermen on the dock were looking very unhappy, grumbling about a miserable, windy night with high seas and no fish.   Additionally, there were two towering fish-buying barges anchored inside the tiny cove so tightly you could hardly see the water.  Mangy dogs ran up and down the docks, hopping off and on boats, excited to be ashore while their masters complained.  Amidst all the fishermen there was one brave woman, holding her ground aboard her own tiny boat.  

Most of the fishermen were from Petersburg, including the woman who sailed this boat.  Ka'sala is wedged in front

There was only one other sailboat, locked up and empty.  We were surprised to see it was Cape St. James whose owners we had been trying to connect with for several weeks.  We found out later that Fran and Jim, friends of friends from Mexico, had taken the floatplane to the hospital in Juneau because Fran had broken her arm.  We never did meet them.

Flying out of the entrance to Elphin Cove - Fairweather Range in the distance

We had heard that Elphin Cove had a good grocery store and we were anxious to stock up before heading into Glacier Bay.  Our last fresh produce, bought in Sitka, was almost gone and neither of us was looking forward to tinned vegetables and fruit.  Once Ka’sala was secured, we headed up the dock to explore.  Elphin Cove is a boardwalk village, similar to Pelican, running along an inner harbour and circling around a small promontory.  It is lined with wooden dwellings, lodges, a couple small restaurants and services such as laundry and post office.  

The grocery store was well stocked and, lucky for us, it was “fresh produce day”.   I was able to get what we needed - once I got over the exorbitant prices!  There were many Kirkland staples and I learned that the products were delivered by floatplane from Costco at $50.00 USD an order.  

Elphin Cove General Store (from Sailing Rover Blog)

We didn’t tarry as we had to be off the dock by 3pm to catch the flood tide which rushes through Inian Pass – sometimes as high as 9 knots!  We made it through with only a couple of knots behind us, accompanied by two mid-sized National Geographic cruise ships.  We wondered if they were the same ones we had encountered in the Sea of Cortez.  

Spectacular views from Inian Pass

As we exited the Inian Pass into the Icy Straits, the wind picked up over 25 knots from behind.  We let out the headsail and were forcefully pushed all the way to Mud Bay, our planned anchorage for the night.

We were tucked in behind Goose Island

We were not impressed when the strong wind, along with building swells, followed us into the bay. We were concerned we would not find safe haven and we didn’t know of any other place else nearby.  As we were pushed further into the shallowing bay, we spied a small aluminum fish boat tucked into a small cove behind a tiny island.  As we anchored just behind him, the sea flattened, and only gusts set us dancing while the shaggy island trees blocked the worst of it.  Unexpectedly, we spent a delightful evening there, watching the light fade over the many peaks and mountains.  At one point a grizzly bear came foraging down the rocky beach before returning back to the gloom of the forest.  Sea otters played in the kelp and we noticed the water had changed to an opaque light green.  

I checked the temperature – 6 degrees Celsius!!!  Well, why not?  Here we were, just across the Icy Straits from Glacier Bay – home to many retreating glaciers perpetually calving into the ocean!  We spent a peaceful night, dreaming of soon seeing those magnificent glaciers for ourselves.

See map above for position of Elphin Cove

Sitka to Pelican - July 12 to 18

We left Sitka after breakfast on July 12 and headed north.  The day was overcast with rain showers but as we moved along it lightened up.  We passed the cruise ship dock near Old Sitka and pointed our bow into Olga and Neva Strait.  

One of many cruise ships that visit Sitka

Olga Passage

 Although the currents meet halfway between these narrow channels, we encountered little difficulty.  As we entered Salisbury Sound we could see the entrance to Peril Passage opening up to our right and a couple of boats heading in that direction, hoping to make Sergius Narrows at slack.

Rushing to make slack tide at Sergius Narrows at the end of Neva Passage

We continued on out to sea.  As the sound opened up, we started feeling the effects of the open ocean.  A small swell gradually increased to 4 feet and the 10 knot wind was on our nose.

Though still chilly, the sun came out and we were able to see some spectacular scenery

We continued around the Katz Peninsula and entered Piehle Passage about lunch time.  Our local fisherman neighbour at the docks in Sitka, Cody, had shown us on the chart how to transit this rock and islet strewn area to spill into Slocum Arm at the other side.

I copied this chart - it does not show the exact route, but gives you the idea

We entered with the swell behind us and a humpback whale breaching nearby.  I stood on the bow to watch for unexpected obstructions, and Doug steered the course using the electronic chart plotter.  The hardest part of this passage was paying attention to where we were going as it is an absolutely stunning place – bringing to mind the Broken Island group on the west coast of Vancouver Island.  The sun was now fully out and the place just sparkled.

The rock and islet strewn Piehle Passage

We only had a few more miles to go to reach Elf Cove at the head of Ford Arm.  What the chart showed as a shelf, was actually a lovely little bay with tall mountains rising behind it.

Ka'sala at Elf Cove

We dropped our anchor in 10 meters on the southern side.  The water was so clear we could see a gigantic kelp garden below our hull.

Underwater garden at Elf Cove

Sandy, shell strewn berm in undersea garden and the reflection of the clouds on the surface of the cove

A tiny gravel crescent beach cupped the head of the little bay, while spruce, hemlock and pine rose up behind it.  We spent an absolutely still calm night and slept like babies.

Behind the treeline at the top of Elf Cove

The next morning was clear and, when I went to the cockpit with my morning coffee, I could see we were ringed by spectacular alpine landscape.

Morning view from the cockpit in Elf Cove

It was a warm day and that afternoon, while Doug worked on removing failed Cetol from the teak rails, I sunbathed in the cockpit.  That morning we had launched the kayaks to explore around the head of Ford Arm – the first time we had paddled since Hawaii.  This time, however, rather than being in our bathing suits, we were in our bicycling wet weather gear and thermal underwear!

Doug at Ford Arm

On the beach at Elf Cove

Elf Cove

We stayed a second night and then moved farther north, through Smooth Channel to Klag Bay.  We knew the entrance to that bay, known as “The Gate” had to be transited at a slack tide.  We had timed it to arrive at low slack, but got there a bit early.  We decided to proceed anyway and had quite a white knuckle ride against a 5 knot flow which ran through a narrow passage.  We turned an abrupt right and entered “Elbow Passage” where we continued to encounter strong currents and swirls against us.  Ka’sala was able to make it through, but it wasn’t one of our more pleasant experiences.
An entire adjacent lake, as well as Klag Bay, has to empty through these two restricted passages and at times it felt like we were against water going down a drain.  Nevertheless, we were through it in good time, though it felt like forever!  We rounded Klag Island and found our anchorage in a little bay wedged into it.  We were in a deeper pocket and let out 50 meters of chain.

Ka'sala at Klag Bay

It was quite calm in Klag Island Bay and over the next 48 hours the weather deteriorated.  We managed to get in our kayaks to explore our bay and investigate an area that was supposed to have “abandoned Indian shacks” (didn’t find those, but saw a newer cabin and several people in small fish boats).  Later in the day, while it was blowing over 25 knots just a few miles away, we were snug in our little pocket with hardly a breeze.  The rain bucketed down, but we were snug with our warm diesel heater.  We spent our time below catching up on our reading and researching our potential passages and anchorages over the next few weeks.

Tiny bay in Klag Island

On Monday, the rain let up and we upped anchor to head to the head of Klag Bay.  An abandoned gold mine is situated there and we hoped to explore it.  We anchored behind a small island, waved in by a lugubrious sea otter, launched the kayaks and paddled to the top of the bay where a river tumbles out.

Anchorage at the head of Klag Bay

All around us, running water and small creeks emptied into the bay.  The water at this end of Klag Bay was dark brown and brackish, but surrounded by great expanses of mudflats and tall grasses.  One of our guides said this was bear country, so we were on the lookout.  It had suggested we carry a pop can full of pebbles to let the bears know we were nearby.

Abandoned gold mine ruins on far shore

We headed back to explore the ruins of the gold mine, but as we approached, Doug pointed out a large grizzly bear checking us out on the shore.

Then we saw her two little cubs.  As we got closer, she shooed these cubs into the tree line, then came back to watch us again.  We decided that we really didn’t want to see that old abandoned gold mine after all.  Instead, we sat silently in our kayaks and observed the mama grizzly.  She was the one to stare us down and, after a while, we just paddled away, but not before I got a photo.  (Too bad I didn’t have a good lens!)  For some reason, I couldn’t see how a pebble filled pop can was going to help us if we had gone ashore!

The next day we left Klag Bay at high slack and slipped through the "Elbow" and the "Gate" with hardly a knot against us - a different world! 

Spectacular Smooth Passage

We continued down Smooth Passage for a couple of hours and anchored at Kimshan Cove - the site of another abandoned gold mine which we also did not explore.

Kimshan Cove

We were up early the next morning and crossed Portlock Harbour to enter Dry Pass Bay.  We saw many playful sea otters along the way.

Too cute!

Once we anchored we launched the kayaks to explore Dry Passage - a small channel leading to the open sea.  We wanted to visit the White Sulpher Hot Springs a little farther on, but had been unable to find a suitable anchorage close enough to dinghy or kayak ashore.  We thought we might be able to get through a "back door" way from Dry Passage but, once we saw it, we knew it wasn't feasible.  Our hot springs dip would have to wait another day.  

Sailboats on the other side of the breakers at Dry Passage

That evening we were joined by Bob and Dina aboard s/v Silverado.  We had been in contact with them over the Great Northern Boating Net and the net controller, Darlene, was keen that we should get together with them.  Bob had singlehanded his boat from Mexico to Sitka via Hawaii a few years ago, so we had plenty of notes to compare.  We spent an enjoyable evening getting to know each other and hope our paths will cross again.

Silverado sunset at Dry Pass Bay

This morning we decided leave Dry Pass and head directly for Pelican, a tiny fishing village in Lisianski Inlet.  

Lisianski Passage

We arrived at lunchtime and will stay here for a couple of days before continuing on to Glacier Bay.  I don't know when we will have internet again, but will post when I get the chance.

Approaching Pelican

On the dock at Pelican

The entire village of Pelican is accessed by this boardwalk - it was great to get out and stretch our legs

This chart I took from the internet - it is not our exact routing to Glacier Bay, but very close

Sitka

Five days is just not enought time to do Sitka justice.  What a lovely town it is!  We have spent our time here recovering from our passage - getting the sleep patterns back in order after the watch system has taken a bit of work on my part - but we are both feeling rested now and ready to proceed.  Tomorrow we are up early and will head north through Olga and Neva passages, into Salisbury Sound, transit Sergius Narrows, into Peril Strait and Chatham Inlet.  We are heading for Warm Springs Cove on the east side of Baronof Island where we will stay for a couple days, though we will likely anchor in a spot or two en route.  Our reservation for Glacier Bay isn't until July 23, so we imagine ourselves meandering up Chatham Strait over the next week, exploring other anchorages and hot springs en route.  Apparently internet connection is infrequent, so I may not be able to post as regularly.

(I will post a chart following our route at a later date - in the meantime, if you are interested, you can find the route described above with a google search)

While in Sitka, we cleaned up Ka'sala inside and out, loaded her up with diesel and water again, and filled the stores with fresh provisions.  There is a local grocery store here, Sea Mart, which has excellent stock at reasonable prices considering what is involved in bringing goods to this remote location.  They even paid for our taxi ride back to the marina!  But it hasn't been all work.  We did find the Pioneer Bar and drank our fill of Alaska Amber and Baronof IPA!

We explored the Sitka National Monument and Park and learned about the history of the Tlingit, Russian and American people who have lived here.  Everyone seems friendly and most people want to know where you come from and where you are going.  It is hard to get down the dock without being engaged in several conversations.  The locals, for their part, lead interesting lives.  Many are fishermen and the collection of their boats on the docks is vibrant and very much in working order.  The commercial fishing industry here is alive and well! 

The only complaint we have had is the internet connections here are terrible.  The cell phone coverage is very weak and overwelmed most of the time.  Only a handful of places have WiFi available to the public and, they too, are over burdened.  I think part of it is because of the many cruise ships that unload their passangers each day - many of them probably have their smartphones with them.

There are about 25 miles of road here and we have explored most of it on our bicycles.  It was great to get out and stretch our muscles!  Sitka is definitely bicycle friendly with a wide bicycle lane along the highway.  We will miss this place!

On Baronof Hill - where Alaska was sold to the US by the Russians and also where Alaska became a state

The following are some photos I took while we were at sea - not too many, I'm afraid - too busy!

Shaka bro' - leaving Hanalei Bay, Kauai

Hitch hiker

A cold day

Reading underway at the nav station

Deceptively peaceful!

Drying out the clothes

Land ho!

Proud captain

Sitka boat harbour - it is huge

Ka'sala dwarfed by fishboats and large power yachts

First view of Sitka by sea - it was overcast for most of our stay here