31.25 N
152.05 W
114 NM, 637 made good and 1703 NM to go!
We've had a rainy night and experienced more rain in the last 24 hours than we have in the last year! I suppose we had better get used to it again as we are returning to the Pacific Northwest! It is a gentle introduction for, although it is wet, it is warm. Although I wear my wet weather gear on watch, I am in my bare feet. I don't think I will be able to that for much longer!
We continue with the wind from the southeast on our quarter. During the night it was quite gusty (15 - 25 knots) and we were up and down from the cockpit reefing/unreefing sails and adjusting the self steering device. It is fairly damp and humid in the cabin today so in a little while I will bake another pan of muffins to dry things out a bit. We don't actually have a wet locker, so we transfer jackets to drip in the head, then hang from the bar in the main salon. Not the tidy Ka'sala we are used to by far!
We seem to be stuck under the quasi stationary front which brings these wet conditions. We will likely be staying in them until it dissipates sometime over the next couple days. Then? We aren't sure, but hope we can connect with the western side of the high so we can go more northerly in dryer conditions.
Fresh stores seem to have stabilized. I have gotten rid of everything that spoiled quickly, but still have plenty of apples and oranges, as well as pineapple and a melon. When that's done we have a case of fruit cocktail and lots of dried fruit. My larder is stocked with tins of vegetables that I can easily add to anything I make. However, I was surprised to find some of my long life milk had solidified and there was a weevil or two in the whole wheat flour!! (more protein - haha!)
All is well with the soggy sailors!
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Monday, June 18, 2018
Sunday, June 17, 2018
Sunday, June 17 - Day 4
29.53N
154.38W
121 NM covered, 1817 to go!
Even though we have only completed day 4, the days are beginning to blend together and the routines are seeming normal. In the last 24 hours we have continued with 15 knots from the southeast, sailing on a beam reach on 045 true at 6 knots. That could change in the next 24 hours as a front coming from the west may overtake us, bringing lighter, more northerly winds. So far we have managed to stay ahead of the front but the barometer is slowly dropping which is not a good sign. We wish we could be a few degrees farther east at the moment so we could continue traveling northeast with the high. We will just take it one day at a time. So we download weather faxes and grib wind reports and trim the sails and wait to see the outcome. The last couple days have been overcast and humid, but cooler. The sky is grey and the seas are grey. We've had regular rain showers - all associated with the slow moving front.
Our spirits are good, we are comfortable and we are on our way home!
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154.38W
121 NM covered, 1817 to go!
Even though we have only completed day 4, the days are beginning to blend together and the routines are seeming normal. In the last 24 hours we have continued with 15 knots from the southeast, sailing on a beam reach on 045 true at 6 knots. That could change in the next 24 hours as a front coming from the west may overtake us, bringing lighter, more northerly winds. So far we have managed to stay ahead of the front but the barometer is slowly dropping which is not a good sign. We wish we could be a few degrees farther east at the moment so we could continue traveling northeast with the high. We will just take it one day at a time. So we download weather faxes and grib wind reports and trim the sails and wait to see the outcome. The last couple days have been overcast and humid, but cooler. The sky is grey and the seas are grey. We've had regular rain showers - all associated with the slow moving front.
Our spirits are good, we are comfortable and we are on our way home!
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Saturday, June 16, 2018
Saturday, June 16: Day 3
29.00 N
155.47 W
131 nautical miles on Day 3, for a total of 402 and 1938 to go!
We have been making good time and the conditions continue in our favour. We are making a bit more easting than we had at first planned, but because of a slow moving front to the west of us, have decided to stay to the east of our track and in the favourable winds. Right now we are beam reaching and averaging 6.5 knots in approximately 20 knots of wind from the south east. Based on weather information Doug has decided we should stay on this course, if we can, for the next several days.
I think we are into the passage making routine again. The watches seem to come naturally and I am feeling a little more relaxed. I'm reading a book now and last night I watched a film. I made a quiche yesterday and tonight I will try for pizza. We've decided muffins on night watch beat granola bars any day!
On Doug's watch this morning a good sized squall bore down on us bringing stronger winds and a good dousing of rain. A flying fish managed to get itself entangled in one of the mainsail reefs and couldn't be freed until later in the morning, poor thing. Other than that - no wild life, and no other boats.
I'm trying to concentrate on the passage on a day by day basis and not think too much of life once we arrive. Time seems to move quicker that way, though we have done exceedingly well for three days at sea!
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155.47 W
131 nautical miles on Day 3, for a total of 402 and 1938 to go!
We have been making good time and the conditions continue in our favour. We are making a bit more easting than we had at first planned, but because of a slow moving front to the west of us, have decided to stay to the east of our track and in the favourable winds. Right now we are beam reaching and averaging 6.5 knots in approximately 20 knots of wind from the south east. Based on weather information Doug has decided we should stay on this course, if we can, for the next several days.
I think we are into the passage making routine again. The watches seem to come naturally and I am feeling a little more relaxed. I'm reading a book now and last night I watched a film. I made a quiche yesterday and tonight I will try for pizza. We've decided muffins on night watch beat granola bars any day!
On Doug's watch this morning a good sized squall bore down on us bringing stronger winds and a good dousing of rain. A flying fish managed to get itself entangled in one of the mainsail reefs and couldn't be freed until later in the morning, poor thing. Other than that - no wild life, and no other boats.
I'm trying to concentrate on the passage on a day by day basis and not think too much of life once we arrive. Time seems to move quicker that way, though we have done exceedingly well for three days at sea!
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Friday, June 15, 2018
Friday, June 15: Day 2
27.16 N
157.14W
146 nautical miles covered, 271 in total - 2069 to go
Conditions remained fairly steady over Day 2, with winds and seas moderating slightly. We are being helped along by a current that seems to be up to one knot at times - lovely! It is quite warm and humid, and the skies are overcast. There are squalls around and we are kind of hoping we may see one pass overhead to cool things down, and wash the salt off Ka'sala, as the decks and cockpit are greasy with it. Doug predicts these conditions to persist for the next 24 hours or so.
To the Northwest is a cold front associated with a frontal low moving away from us, and the Pacific High is generating winds from the southeast. We are hoping to keep these winds on our starboard quarter and sail more or less north.
Our ideal course is the great circle route which currently is 020 degrees true to Sitka (57 05N 135 23W)- meaning it is the most direct route - the way the gull flies. At the moment, we are just to the east of it and tracking about 030 T to keep a good angle on the wind. We are sailing along averaging about 5.5 knots. I am beginning to think of 020 N as HWY20 to Alaska and, all going well, we will be able to stay on it with few diversions.
Last evening a very large seabird decided to roost on our bow and spent the whole night. What a magnificent creature! It was the size of a small turkey with pristine white feathers trimmed in black. Below its bright black eyes was a long powder blue beak and its webbed feet were a brilliant orange. No. I am not making this up. I took pictures. Steve will know what kind of bird this is!
The bananas aren't doing very well and some of them fell victim to muffins this morning. We will appreciate them on our night watches! Overall the fresh produce does not seem to be doing as well as the stuff I had bought in Mexico. I think this is because most of it was refrigerated and if you can't keep it that way, it quickly rots. Not to worry, though, when the fresh is finished, we have plenty of dried and canned stores.
Not quite back into the routine yet, but close.
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157.14W
146 nautical miles covered, 271 in total - 2069 to go
Conditions remained fairly steady over Day 2, with winds and seas moderating slightly. We are being helped along by a current that seems to be up to one knot at times - lovely! It is quite warm and humid, and the skies are overcast. There are squalls around and we are kind of hoping we may see one pass overhead to cool things down, and wash the salt off Ka'sala, as the decks and cockpit are greasy with it. Doug predicts these conditions to persist for the next 24 hours or so.
To the Northwest is a cold front associated with a frontal low moving away from us, and the Pacific High is generating winds from the southeast. We are hoping to keep these winds on our starboard quarter and sail more or less north.
Our ideal course is the great circle route which currently is 020 degrees true to Sitka (57 05N 135 23W)- meaning it is the most direct route - the way the gull flies. At the moment, we are just to the east of it and tracking about 030 T to keep a good angle on the wind. We are sailing along averaging about 5.5 knots. I am beginning to think of 020 N as HWY20 to Alaska and, all going well, we will be able to stay on it with few diversions.
Last evening a very large seabird decided to roost on our bow and spent the whole night. What a magnificent creature! It was the size of a small turkey with pristine white feathers trimmed in black. Below its bright black eyes was a long powder blue beak and its webbed feet were a brilliant orange. No. I am not making this up. I took pictures. Steve will know what kind of bird this is!
The bananas aren't doing very well and some of them fell victim to muffins this morning. We will appreciate them on our night watches! Overall the fresh produce does not seem to be doing as well as the stuff I had bought in Mexico. I think this is because most of it was refrigerated and if you can't keep it that way, it quickly rots. Not to worry, though, when the fresh is finished, we have plenty of dried and canned stores.
Not quite back into the routine yet, but close.
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Thursday, June 14, 2018
Thursday, June 14 - Kauai to Alaska: Day 1
25.21N
158.48W
125 nautical miles, only 2215 left to go to Sitka!
We left Hanalei Bay yesterday morning at approximately 7am. Soon as we had cleared the bay we were into moderate trade winds blowing a steady 20 knots from the East. So we bore off and sailed north on a beam reach through the rough seas. As the night progressed, the wind veered, and we were able to sail more comfortably. By this morning, the winds had dropped to 15 knots and the seas also calmed down. We were then able to sail close reaching on our course of 020 True. We hope to continue to be able to make easting, while still progressing northwards over the next few days. There is a low pressure system to the northwest of us bringing strong winds, but we should be able to avoid them if we stay to the east of our track. The Pacific High is well defined to the north east of us and we are hoping to ride north on its clockwise winds.
We keep track of our progress twice a day: at 0300 UTC (which is 5pm Hawaii time) and 1500 UTC (5am local time) to correspond with our check in with the Pacific Seafarer's Net at 0300 UTC. As a result, although I have posted a distance of 125 NM in our first day, it is actually in our first 22 hours - this distance is also miles made good on our track.
I know the last two paragraphs were technical, but I know some of you enjoy that stuff. As far as crew wellness is concerned, we are both happy to finally be on our way. Doug is enjoying the planning and strategizing and I am just working at keeping my anxieties under control! It is beautiful out here! The sky and seas are torquoise blue. It's 30 degrees and the water temperature is 25 degrees. Ka'sala is sailing along beautifully considering the conditions. We have lots of food, water and diesel. We are healthy (well, maybe sore shoulders and a sore back) and we are closing the circle of our sailing dream. Who could ask for anything more?
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158.48W
125 nautical miles, only 2215 left to go to Sitka!
We left Hanalei Bay yesterday morning at approximately 7am. Soon as we had cleared the bay we were into moderate trade winds blowing a steady 20 knots from the East. So we bore off and sailed north on a beam reach through the rough seas. As the night progressed, the wind veered, and we were able to sail more comfortably. By this morning, the winds had dropped to 15 knots and the seas also calmed down. We were then able to sail close reaching on our course of 020 True. We hope to continue to be able to make easting, while still progressing northwards over the next few days. There is a low pressure system to the northwest of us bringing strong winds, but we should be able to avoid them if we stay to the east of our track. The Pacific High is well defined to the north east of us and we are hoping to ride north on its clockwise winds.
We keep track of our progress twice a day: at 0300 UTC (which is 5pm Hawaii time) and 1500 UTC (5am local time) to correspond with our check in with the Pacific Seafarer's Net at 0300 UTC. As a result, although I have posted a distance of 125 NM in our first day, it is actually in our first 22 hours - this distance is also miles made good on our track.
I know the last two paragraphs were technical, but I know some of you enjoy that stuff. As far as crew wellness is concerned, we are both happy to finally be on our way. Doug is enjoying the planning and strategizing and I am just working at keeping my anxieties under control! It is beautiful out here! The sky and seas are torquoise blue. It's 30 degrees and the water temperature is 25 degrees. Ka'sala is sailing along beautifully considering the conditions. We have lots of food, water and diesel. We are healthy (well, maybe sore shoulders and a sore back) and we are closing the circle of our sailing dream. Who could ask for anything more?
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Tuesday, June 12, 2018
Hanalei Bay
22.20
N
159.56
W
We
arrived in Hanalei Bay from Honolulu at 9am on Sunday morning (June 10) after
close reaching through 25 knot trade winds. Not fun - especially on the
first day out – but we made it through.
The reward is to be anchored in this gorgeous place on the northern
shore of Kauai. To the west of us is a
ridge of steep mountains, lush green with jungle and cascading waterfalls.
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| Ka'sala is the last boat on the right |
At the head of the bay is two miles of
pristine white beach with the funky village of Hanalei behind.
To the east are a small river and a long pier
– once the loading point for the rice that used to be exported from here.
The water in the bay is turquoise blue and 25
degrees. There are not many tourists and
there is no hustle and bustle. What a
lovely way to relax for a few days before continuing on our northern passage!
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| Ka'sala is mid left |
Yesterday
we launched our kayaks to explore the river.
As we entered we noticed enormous bushes, at least 20 feet high, covered
with yellow hibiscus-looking flowers.
Floating along the river’s surface were similar flowers, but these were
coral in colour.
The bushes gave way to
trees, grasses and other vegetation, most of which I have never seen before,
giving it a very other worldly appearance.
We followed it for about 3 miles when it narrowed, and abruptly ended in
a grove of bamboo.
Along the way we
could hear the sounds of strange insects and birds on the riverbanks, but only
saw an odd red-billed duck-like creature and a small turtle.
We
paddled back out to the bay, beached our kayaks and strolled into the
village. There is a small central core
of quaint shops, cafes and markets and we found an unusual place to have lunch in
a classroom of the old school.
Afterward
we strolled up and down the 2 mile, powder sand beach, enjoying the incredible
mountain views, before returning to Ka’sala.
This
place is a little wild. The weather is
constantly changing. One minute we are
in brilliant sunshine, the next in misty rain, followed by a rainbow.
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| Ka'sala at anchor at Hanalei Bay |
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| Outrigger canoes |
The sunsets are spectacular and the light and
clouds that play along the mountain ridges are amazing to watch.
It has been windy with over 20 knots gusting
through the anchorage during the day – no doubt a result of the strong trades
and the mountainous landscape.
In
addition to exploring this place we have also completed all the last minute
details to get Ka’sala ready for her next long passage. Our bumpy 24 hour trip here pointed out to us
a few things that needed stowing! We are now more than ready to go and will
leave right after breakfast tomorrow (June 13). The trade winds are supposed to
moderate, so we hope our first few days won’t be as rough as the passage
here. The projected weather forecast
continues to look positive for the next week or so and we can only hope that it
continues for us for all the 2430 nautical miles to Alaska!
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| Overview of Hanalei Bay - borrowed from the internet |
Friday, June 8, 2018
Goodbye Hawaii
We have been in Honolulu for a little over three weeks and we are more than ready to continue on our journey home. We have been very well looked after by the Hawaii Yacht Club and have appreciated its central location for accessing the city, but it is time to move on. After breakfast, on Saturday June 9, we will sail out of the Ala Wai basin and head for the Ko Olina marina on the southwestern side of Oahu to fill up with diesel. We are considering spending the night at anchor at Poka I, a bay a little further north from there, but if the conditions are condusive, we will reach across to the island of Kauai and Hanalei Bay, approximately 80 nauticual miles further on.
Hanalei Bay has been a traditional jumping off point for cruisers heading north for many years. It is a beautiful, large round bay surrounded by steep green hills and cascading waterfalls. We have been told that you feel like you are in Polynesia when you are anchored there. There are some good beaches and a small town behind the surf. We hope its laid-back atmosphere will be very relaxing for us after the hustle and bustle of Honolulu. Additionally, the clear, warm waters will give Doug a chance to dive on the hull to make sure everything is in order below. The trade winds are predicted to relax mid week, so our plan is to leave for Sitka on Tuesday or Wednesday.
The passage north is approximately 2700 nauticual miles. It will be quite different from our straight-line passage from Mexico. We will likely sail due north until we are above at least 40 degrees north, then start easting toward Sitka which sits at 57.05N and 135.33W. Our heading will be dependent on the North Pacific high - an area we want to avoid because it has little wind. As it is a circular flow, we hope to sail clockwise along its outer fringes. As we leave Hawaii the wind will likely be on our beam, then gradually veer to our aft quarter where it will push us all the way to Sitka. Of course, that description is incredibly simplistic and each day's conditions will dictate our point of sail.
Another big difference between the two passages will be temperature. We sailed to Hawaii in our shorts and bathing suits. By the time we reach 35 degrees north we will be in our woolies and soon after that our Dickensen diesel heater will be on full time. The ocean temperatures will drop from 24 degrees to a little over 10 degrees celcius! We could encounter fog. We have a greater chance of encountering higher winds and higher seas, though the time of year we are making this passage is optimum for avoiding these conditions. Ka'sala is ready - the boat was made for this passage - and we are as ready as we can be. I, for one, will be so glad to see the coastal mountains and the great forests again!
As I did on the last passage, I will be posting to the blog daily from our SSB radio. As before, we will also be checking into the Pacific Seafarer's Net each day. Don't forget, if you don't hear from us in a day or two, it is likely technical difficulties. We are not aware of any other sailboat which is leaving at the same time as us, but we may meet some in Hanalei Bay. We do know of three who have been making the passage over the last month - one about to arrive in Sitka, the other half way to Bellingham and another who left at the beginning of this week. I am sure there will be others.
For the next two days we will be doing all the last minute chores such as buying provisions and storing them, laundry, filling water, storing canvas and bicycles and making Ka'sala into the ocean going vessel she is supposed to be. North America! Here we come!
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| Kauai is the island at the upper left and Hanalei Bay is on its north shore |
Hanalei Bay has been a traditional jumping off point for cruisers heading north for many years. It is a beautiful, large round bay surrounded by steep green hills and cascading waterfalls. We have been told that you feel like you are in Polynesia when you are anchored there. There are some good beaches and a small town behind the surf. We hope its laid-back atmosphere will be very relaxing for us after the hustle and bustle of Honolulu. Additionally, the clear, warm waters will give Doug a chance to dive on the hull to make sure everything is in order below. The trade winds are predicted to relax mid week, so our plan is to leave for Sitka on Tuesday or Wednesday.
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| Lifted from the internet - hope it's as nice as this! |
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| We won't be sailing "as the crow flies"! |
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| A cheery little flame will burn in the grate just below the tile |
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| Sitka, Alaska |
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| Ka'sala is ready to go - Doug repairs and perfects the main track |
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| Lots of draft beer was sampled |
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| Without our bicycles we would have been boat bound |
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| Surf's up - every dat! |
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| Our home away from home - Hawaii Yacht Club |
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| A quiet sea access tucked away beyond Waikiki |
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| Diamond Head by land |
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| Ka'sala's exclusive berth these last three weeks - note all the toys! |
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| Magnificent fireworks every Friday night |
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