Sitka to Pelican - July 12 to 18

We left Sitka after breakfast on July 12 and headed north.  The day was overcast with rain showers but as we moved along it lightened up.  We passed the cruise ship dock near Old Sitka and pointed our bow into Olga and Neva Strait.  

One of many cruise ships that visit Sitka

Olga Passage

 Although the currents meet halfway between these narrow channels, we encountered little difficulty.  As we entered Salisbury Sound we could see the entrance to Peril Passage opening up to our right and a couple of boats heading in that direction, hoping to make Sergius Narrows at slack.

Rushing to make slack tide at Sergius Narrows at the end of Neva Passage

We continued on out to sea.  As the sound opened up, we started feeling the effects of the open ocean.  A small swell gradually increased to 4 feet and the 10 knot wind was on our nose.

Though still chilly, the sun came out and we were able to see some spectacular scenery

We continued around the Katz Peninsula and entered Piehle Passage about lunch time.  Our local fisherman neighbour at the docks in Sitka, Cody, had shown us on the chart how to transit this rock and islet strewn area to spill into Slocum Arm at the other side.

I copied this chart - it does not show the exact route, but gives you the idea

We entered with the swell behind us and a humpback whale breaching nearby.  I stood on the bow to watch for unexpected obstructions, and Doug steered the course using the electronic chart plotter.  The hardest part of this passage was paying attention to where we were going as it is an absolutely stunning place – bringing to mind the Broken Island group on the west coast of Vancouver Island.  The sun was now fully out and the place just sparkled.

The rock and islet strewn Piehle Passage

We only had a few more miles to go to reach Elf Cove at the head of Ford Arm.  What the chart showed as a shelf, was actually a lovely little bay with tall mountains rising behind it.

Ka'sala at Elf Cove

We dropped our anchor in 10 meters on the southern side.  The water was so clear we could see a gigantic kelp garden below our hull.

Underwater garden at Elf Cove

Sandy, shell strewn berm in undersea garden and the reflection of the clouds on the surface of the cove

A tiny gravel crescent beach cupped the head of the little bay, while spruce, hemlock and pine rose up behind it.  We spent an absolutely still calm night and slept like babies.

Behind the treeline at the top of Elf Cove

The next morning was clear and, when I went to the cockpit with my morning coffee, I could see we were ringed by spectacular alpine landscape.

Morning view from the cockpit in Elf Cove

It was a warm day and that afternoon, while Doug worked on removing failed Cetol from the teak rails, I sunbathed in the cockpit.  That morning we had launched the kayaks to explore around the head of Ford Arm – the first time we had paddled since Hawaii.  This time, however, rather than being in our bathing suits, we were in our bicycling wet weather gear and thermal underwear!

Doug at Ford Arm

On the beach at Elf Cove

Elf Cove

We stayed a second night and then moved farther north, through Smooth Channel to Klag Bay.  We knew the entrance to that bay, known as “The Gate” had to be transited at a slack tide.  We had timed it to arrive at low slack, but got there a bit early.  We decided to proceed anyway and had quite a white knuckle ride against a 5 knot flow which ran through a narrow passage.  We turned an abrupt right and entered “Elbow Passage” where we continued to encounter strong currents and swirls against us.  Ka’sala was able to make it through, but it wasn’t one of our more pleasant experiences.
An entire adjacent lake, as well as Klag Bay, has to empty through these two restricted passages and at times it felt like we were against water going down a drain.  Nevertheless, we were through it in good time, though it felt like forever!  We rounded Klag Island and found our anchorage in a little bay wedged into it.  We were in a deeper pocket and let out 50 meters of chain.

Ka'sala at Klag Bay

It was quite calm in Klag Island Bay and over the next 48 hours the weather deteriorated.  We managed to get in our kayaks to explore our bay and investigate an area that was supposed to have “abandoned Indian shacks” (didn’t find those, but saw a newer cabin and several people in small fish boats).  Later in the day, while it was blowing over 25 knots just a few miles away, we were snug in our little pocket with hardly a breeze.  The rain bucketed down, but we were snug with our warm diesel heater.  We spent our time below catching up on our reading and researching our potential passages and anchorages over the next few weeks.

Tiny bay in Klag Island

On Monday, the rain let up and we upped anchor to head to the head of Klag Bay.  An abandoned gold mine is situated there and we hoped to explore it.  We anchored behind a small island, waved in by a lugubrious sea otter, launched the kayaks and paddled to the top of the bay where a river tumbles out.

Anchorage at the head of Klag Bay

All around us, running water and small creeks emptied into the bay.  The water at this end of Klag Bay was dark brown and brackish, but surrounded by great expanses of mudflats and tall grasses.  One of our guides said this was bear country, so we were on the lookout.  It had suggested we carry a pop can full of pebbles to let the bears know we were nearby.

Abandoned gold mine ruins on far shore

We headed back to explore the ruins of the gold mine, but as we approached, Doug pointed out a large grizzly bear checking us out on the shore.

Then we saw her two little cubs.  As we got closer, she shooed these cubs into the tree line, then came back to watch us again.  We decided that we really didn’t want to see that old abandoned gold mine after all.  Instead, we sat silently in our kayaks and observed the mama grizzly.  She was the one to stare us down and, after a while, we just paddled away, but not before I got a photo.  (Too bad I didn’t have a good lens!)  For some reason, I couldn’t see how a pebble filled pop can was going to help us if we had gone ashore!

The next day we left Klag Bay at high slack and slipped through the "Elbow" and the "Gate" with hardly a knot against us - a different world! 

Spectacular Smooth Passage

We continued down Smooth Passage for a couple of hours and anchored at Kimshan Cove - the site of another abandoned gold mine which we also did not explore.

Kimshan Cove

We were up early the next morning and crossed Portlock Harbour to enter Dry Pass Bay.  We saw many playful sea otters along the way.

Too cute!

Once we anchored we launched the kayaks to explore Dry Passage - a small channel leading to the open sea.  We wanted to visit the White Sulpher Hot Springs a little farther on, but had been unable to find a suitable anchorage close enough to dinghy or kayak ashore.  We thought we might be able to get through a "back door" way from Dry Passage but, once we saw it, we knew it wasn't feasible.  Our hot springs dip would have to wait another day.  

Sailboats on the other side of the breakers at Dry Passage

That evening we were joined by Bob and Dina aboard s/v Silverado.  We had been in contact with them over the Great Northern Boating Net and the net controller, Darlene, was keen that we should get together with them.  Bob had singlehanded his boat from Mexico to Sitka via Hawaii a few years ago, so we had plenty of notes to compare.  We spent an enjoyable evening getting to know each other and hope our paths will cross again.

Silverado sunset at Dry Pass Bay

This morning we decided leave Dry Pass and head directly for Pelican, a tiny fishing village in Lisianski Inlet.  

Lisianski Passage

We arrived at lunchtime and will stay here for a couple of days before continuing on to Glacier Bay.  I don't know when we will have internet again, but will post when I get the chance.

Approaching Pelican

On the dock at Pelican

The entire village of Pelican is accessed by this boardwalk - it was great to get out and stretch our legs

This chart I took from the internet - it is not our exact routing to Glacier Bay, but very close

Sitka

Five days is just not enought time to do Sitka justice.  What a lovely town it is!  We have spent our time here recovering from our passage - getting the sleep patterns back in order after the watch system has taken a bit of work on my part - but we are both feeling rested now and ready to proceed.  Tomorrow we are up early and will head north through Olga and Neva passages, into Salisbury Sound, transit Sergius Narrows, into Peril Strait and Chatham Inlet.  We are heading for Warm Springs Cove on the east side of Baronof Island where we will stay for a couple days, though we will likely anchor in a spot or two en route.  Our reservation for Glacier Bay isn't until July 23, so we imagine ourselves meandering up Chatham Strait over the next week, exploring other anchorages and hot springs en route.  Apparently internet connection is infrequent, so I may not be able to post as regularly.

(I will post a chart following our route at a later date - in the meantime, if you are interested, you can find the route described above with a google search)

While in Sitka, we cleaned up Ka'sala inside and out, loaded her up with diesel and water again, and filled the stores with fresh provisions.  There is a local grocery store here, Sea Mart, which has excellent stock at reasonable prices considering what is involved in bringing goods to this remote location.  They even paid for our taxi ride back to the marina!  But it hasn't been all work.  We did find the Pioneer Bar and drank our fill of Alaska Amber and Baronof IPA!

We explored the Sitka National Monument and Park and learned about the history of the Tlingit, Russian and American people who have lived here.  Everyone seems friendly and most people want to know where you come from and where you are going.  It is hard to get down the dock without being engaged in several conversations.  The locals, for their part, lead interesting lives.  Many are fishermen and the collection of their boats on the docks is vibrant and very much in working order.  The commercial fishing industry here is alive and well! 

The only complaint we have had is the internet connections here are terrible.  The cell phone coverage is very weak and overwelmed most of the time.  Only a handful of places have WiFi available to the public and, they too, are over burdened.  I think part of it is because of the many cruise ships that unload their passangers each day - many of them probably have their smartphones with them.

There are about 25 miles of road here and we have explored most of it on our bicycles.  It was great to get out and stretch our muscles!  Sitka is definitely bicycle friendly with a wide bicycle lane along the highway.  We will miss this place!

On Baronof Hill - where Alaska was sold to the US by the Russians and also where Alaska became a state

The following are some photos I took while we were at sea - not too many, I'm afraid - too busy!

Shaka bro' - leaving Hanalei Bay, Kauai

Hitch hiker

A cold day

Reading underway at the nav station

Deceptively peaceful!

Drying out the clothes

Land ho!

Proud captain

Sitka boat harbour - it is huge

Ka'sala dwarfed by fishboats and large power yachts

First view of Sitka by sea - it was overcast for most of our stay here

Friday, July 6 - Day 23

57.04 N
135.21 W

Sitka, Alaska

We're here!  We arrived on the dock in Sitka this morning at 8am local time after a quiet night. It took 23 days and 3 hours to get here from Hanalei Bay, Kauai, Hawaii.  I can't say it was the most pleasurable passage we have completed, but we both feel a great sense of accomplishment, and are happy to be here safe and sound.  For the next few days we will be cleaning and tidying, resting up, exploring Sitka, and acclimatizing.  We are both more than excited to start the next phase of our adventure as we take the next couple of months to explore Alaska and work our way down the coast to Comox.  Thank you to friends and loved ones who have been keeping us in their thoughts and wishing us well as we made our way here.  Knowing we are loved and all that positive energy certainly made a difference. 

Hero shot - are we happy to be in Sitka, or what?

Thursday, July 5 - Day 22

56.02 N
137.06 W

104 NM - 104 to go!

All going well, today is our last day at sea. We expect to arrive in Sitka sometime tomorrow morning. I find it hard to believe that the journey is almost over - at times I felt like it was never going to end. Today, contrarily, I feel somewhat nostalgic. This is probably my last offshore passage and what an adventure it has been! We've covered thousands of sea miles since we left Puerto Vallarta on April 24 and now it all seems like a dream.

We still have quite a ways to go before we arrive back in Comox, but it will be a very different type of trip. For example, we will be gunkholing - meaning that each night we will be either at anchor, a mooring or on the dock. Sleeping the night through and not holding watch will make a big difference. If the weather outlook is not to our liking, we will have the option of staying put. There will not be the constant stress of trying to strategize and deal with adverse conditions. We won't have to deal with uncomfortable sea states very often. We will see land, flora and fauna, as well as people. Yes, these can all bring their own sets of problems but we are ready for the change.

Right now we are close reaching on 041 T direct to Sitka. Our full jib and reefed main are set and we are making over 5 knots in easy seas. We saw some sunshine this morning, but we are back in the mist as a result of warm air and cold seas. This morning we were able to tidy the boat in preparation for arriving in port. We are going to look shipshape when we arrive and we are prideful enough to hope to hear: "You came all the way from Hawaii???? Sure doesn't look like it!".

Darlene, on the Great North Boater's Net tells us the Pioneer Bar is the place to be on a Friday night, so we are looking forward to it. Alaska Amber on tap! Who could ask for anything more! In the meantime, we are waiting for the cloud to lift in anticipation of our first sight of the magnificent coastal Alaskan mountains. Tally ho!

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Wednesday, July 4 - Day 21

54.42 N
139.19 W

113 NM - 208 to go!

Happy 4th of July to all our American friends! This morning we were able to make contact with Darlene, net control for the Great Northern Boater's Net, so all the cruisers on the coast who listen in will know we are approaching Sitka. She was pretty excited to hear from us as I don't think they get a lot of offshore sailors checking in. This Ham network connects boaters each morning from Alaska to Puget Sound, so we will be monitoring it as we move south. It was so wonderful to hear the Pacific Northwest chatter from familiar call signs and know we are close to home.

Our rough conditions moderated (giving new meaning to "Shiver me Timbers" for us) over the night and we are now sailing, close hauled, straight to Sitka on 040T. We still have about 20 knots over the deck, but the seas are calmer, so it is actually quite pleasant, in a relative sort of way. The weather prognosis is for these conditions to persist over the next couple of days which means we will likely be on the dock in Sitka sometime Friday morning. Walking on level land will be a real treat - if we don't fall over!

The grey skies persist, though the cloud cover is thin. We still have not seen the sun for almost 2 weeks. No traffic. No wildlife spotted. We will have to keep a closer watch the next couple of days as we will be in range of coastal fishing boats which may not have AIS. Both of us are finding it hard to believe this intense passage is about to draw to a close!

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Tuesday, July 3, Day 20

53.22 N
141.30 W

105 NM - 321 to go!

The favourable winds stayed with us right until this morning and we were able to make good northing. This morning we tacked and are now heading 035T directly to Sitka. That's the good news. The not-so-pleasant news is that we are beating into 20 knots of wind in a choppy sea. Ka'sala is bashing up and down in the waves and we are well heeled on our starboard side. It is rough and, as I write this post, my eyeballs bounce around in my head when I try to focus on the screen. These conditions are supposed to continue for the next 24 hours anyway, so we will just have to lump it - literally. We are flying under a double reefed main, staysail and 1/4 jib and, despite the wave crashing, Ka'sala is maintaining her speed of approximately 5 knots.

The weather prognosis is for lightening conditions on Thursday, so we may get our wish of clear skies and a view of the Alaska coastline as we approach Sitka. Fingers crossed!

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Monday, July 2 - Day 19

51.31 N
141.39 W

113 NM - 426 to go to Sitka!

We woke up this morning to a favourable wind from the southeast that is giving us 5.5 knots of speed in the right direction. Wonderful! We were expecting light winds, so it is nice to get the push. It is still quite cold - we bundle up to go up to the cockpit to make adjustments. The sky and sea are still grey - we have the cloud, drizzle and occasional shower over our heads as the polar front follows us along. Doug was able to download a satellite image of the Pacific Ocean and most of it is clear sunshine - except where we are - of course! Perhaps we will be lucky, and as we get closer to the coast, the cloud will dissipate, and we will see the mountainous coastline as we approach Sitka.

We continue to see large ships. This morning we were in contact with a container ship bound for Vancouver, BC, which passed a mile in front of our bow. When you have AIS you realize it is quite a busy ocean.

We continue to take each day as it comes and look forward to landfall later in the week.

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Sunday, July 1 - Day 18

49.30 N
142.12 W

101 NM - 539 to go!

Happy Canada Day! We celebrated Canada's 151st birthday this morning with pancakes and maple syrup. We feel fortunate to be Canadians in this world where there is so much unrest and uncertainty.

Last night the winds dropped off around midnight and we had to motor until late morning. Now we are gliding along in serene seas, straight north on a beam reach in 10 knots of winds, maintaining approximately 5 knots of speed. Long may it continue! The weather prognosis is that we will enjoy these reasonable easterly winds for the next day or so, then the winds will strengthen and shift to the north - not great for us, as I mentioned before - we do not sail directly into the wind. We expect we will have to bear off east and, in the unlikely event we can't make northing, we have been exploring our charts and guidebooks for possible landfalls to the south of Sitka. We can only take it one day at a time and make decisions accordingly. If we are fortunate, we could make landfall on Friday. Hey! I hope so! We are running out of beer!

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Saturday, June 30 - Day 17

47.43 N
142.23 W

115 NM and 640 to go!

One thing about the weather - wait for it and it will change! Our rough conditions calmed progressively through the evening and night. By morning we were motoring with no wind and passive seas. We had quiet watches and slept well when we weren't on the helm. This morning I made muffins with the last of the bananas I had put in the freezer. We are warm and toasty inside. Outside the mist has lifted somewhat, but the skies are still pewter grey and the 10 degree seas a slate-jade grey. Brrrr!

At the moment we are beating into 10 knots of wind from the northwest and managing 5+ knots. We are focussed on making as much northing as we can over the next few days in order to distance ourselves from a developing low to the southeast of us. If we manage this feat, all going well, we should have fair(ish) winds for the remainder of our voyage to Sitka. We hope to arrive Thursday or Friday this week.

We have been pouring over charts and guides for sailing in Alaskan waters. Both of us are really looking forward to exploring Sitka, then gunkholing in this amazing area. In the meantime, we will enjoy the last few days of the passage.

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Friday, June 29 - Day 16

45.21 N
143.20 W

109 NM - 755 to go!

As I write, yet another front passes over our heads. The seas are up to 3 meters and the winds to 25 knots. They are directly behind us and we run before them with 1/2 a jib and nothing else. For the most part we glide along, but occasionally we are smacked by a generous wave which makes the inside of Ka'sala like the bridge of the Star Trek Enterprise when the Clingons attack! We hold on. The good news is that we are making miles and that we should be through it by later this evening. The next couple of days should bring us milder conditions - I hope!

I did try to make bread today, but I think one of the Clingons must have stepped on it! Ha! We are toasty and warm in our pea green pod.

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Thursday, June 28 - Day 15

43.58 N
144.09 W

122 NM - 864 to go! If we are very fortunate, we will arrive in Sitka in a week.

The sea is 12 degrees today. The water in our tanks is teeth stinging cold. The air temperature in the cabin this morning was 16 degrees and humid - clammy. We fired up the diesel heater and we are now warm, dry and toasty. Outside the seas and skies are pewter grey and misty. A cold wind blows 15 - 20 out of the west and we are beam reaching across the waves at 5.5 knots. It's bumpy as the waves pile into our side and skew the boat. Ka'sala comes back to her course quickly. We have had to fall off our track to 050 T, but we are still making good northing. The winds are supposed to calm down later today and with it, hopefully the seas. Then we will be able to close reach to regain our track of 020.

Yesterday we crossed the shipping highway between LA and Asia. Several enormous ships passed us by, one coming within 2 miles of us. We hailed them on the VHF and they assured us that they could see our AIS and confirmed the distance they would pass us by. We never did see or hear them because of the misty conditions. No wildlife to be seen or heard.

Now that we are warm, we are comfortable, and our books and films continue to amuse us. Today I will try to make a spaghetti sauce to use up some of the withered veggies. We are both looking forward to Sitka. I am counting down the days to Alaska Amber on tap!

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Wednesday, June 27 - Day 14

42.26 N
145.25 N

125 NM, 986 left to Sitka!

We had a much better mileage day today, but we paid for it yesterday with the stronger winds and seas. Over the course of the night, the conditions calmed down considerably, and by morning we had full sails up again, reaching again in 15 knots and heading directly to our destination.

We took advantage of this change to do some housekeeping. Doug ran the engine for an hour to make hot water and we both had "showers". Lovely! While the engine was running I was able to use my little dustbuster vacuum to tidy up. We rinsed out a few clothes, and changed all the linens. We are feeling very clean, organized and relaxed. It is warmer today, but there is a persistent thin fog blocking out the blue skies. Tonight we will have a good dinner to celebrate. Long may these conditions continue!

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Tuesday, June 26 - Day 13

40.44 N
146.07 W

126 NM to the good! 1111 to go.

The wind bent to our favour yesterday and we have been heading north on our track ever since. This morning the winds and seas picked up averaging 25 knots and we have reduced sail down to 1/2 jib and still maintain speeds over 6 knots, so our mileage for tomorrow will be even better.

The conditions are supposed to ease over night and we should have smoother sailing over the next couple days. The skies and sea are grey and it's been raining all day. However, we are warm and dry below. We have our books and each other to keep company. I'm still able to make meals. We look forward to a quieter ride and count down the miles to Sitka.

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Tuesday, June 25 - Day 12

38.18 N
147.20 W

82 NM - 1237 to go!

Finally, we are back on track and heading north, directly to Sitka. The wind continued to veer during the night and we have been sailing along at about 5 knots with the wind on our beam/quarter at 15 knots. We motored for a few hours this morning when the wind was very light, but it looks like we will be able to maintain our north heading for the next few days at least.

It continues to get cold - water is 17 degrees, air in the cabin 19. Using the stove to make night watch muffins this morning warmed things up for us. We see the occasional ship on the AIS, but nothing else. The sky and seas are grey, but the crew continues in great spirits - especially now that we are back on track!

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Sunday, June 24 - Day 11

36.15 N
146.33 W

31 NM - 1319 to go

With this low mileage you would never believe we had over 25 knots of wind all night long! We actually sailed more than 31 miles, but those were the only miles made good to our destination as we were forced to sail NW in front of the oncoming high pressure system. Today the winds have moderated, but still from the north. We are hoping to be able to work our way north and back on our track as the high passes over us in the next day or two. It sure will be nice to get around the wall!

Today is much cooler and we are now in sweats and fleece. Water is 18 degrees and the air temperature around 20. All is well aboard and we look forward to naan bread and chickpea curry for dinner tonight!

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Saturday, June 23 - Day 10

35.48 N
145.53 W

47 NM to the good - 1350 to Sitka

We have decided to take a vacation from sailing and have spent 1/2 of the last 24 hours gently bobbing, without the engine on, in calm waters with very little wind. It's been kind of nice. During daylight hours the sun has been bright and warm and, at night, it has been so still that we have both slept soundly. There is a large high growing to the west of us and we expect to see some wind in the near future. If it works to our favour, we could be sailing northwest (I know it is not in the right direction) for a while then, as the high passes over us, picking up the favourable winds on its western side. (As you know, these highs rotate in a clockwise direction.) However, we have learned from the last week, that we can really only make our course plans one day at a time.

It was so calm this afternoon that we emptied the three jerry cans of diesel we carry on deck into our fuel tanks. We still have at least 96 hours of fuel left to consume, but if we use it, we want to use it wisely. Based on our progress, we could be at least another 2 weeks from Sitka. We still have plenty of water and food and we are in good spirits - well rested as a result of the calm conditions.

Over the last couple days we have seen several ships on our AIS and in the distance. The cargo ship that passed behind us yesterday was almost 15 miles away and we could see it - which gives you an indication for how big the ship was and how far we can see.

We've been enjoying as much time in the cockpit as possible, knowing these days will soon come to a close. We are beginning to feel the air is cooler and the sea temperature has dropped to 19 degrees. We are beginning to think more and more of the Pacific Northwest.

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Friday, June 22 - Day 9

35.09 N
145.58 W

83 NM - 1403 to go
(We moved to Alaska summer time today)

We have experienced another 24 hours of very light winds and we enjoyed every minute of them. Yesterday afternoon was a glorious one - warm and sunny - and we spent most of it in the cockpit. However, soon after sunset the drizzly cloud moved in again and we had no stars or moon to watch in the night. We woke this morning to similar conditions, but by lunchtime the winds had shifted to the southwest and we are now on a port broad reach gliding along at 5 knots.

The next four days are going to bring challenges as we pass under a front, then experience a high establishing itself to the west of us. We will likely be sailing every which way in a variety of conditions until we can get on the western side of the high and re-establish our northerly direction to Sitka. As Doug says, sailing is like playing cards: if you are dealt a difficult hand, the skill is to make the best of what you have been dealt. To take the metaphor one step further, the probability of being dealt an better hand is likely to follow. I hope so.

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Thursday, June 21 - Day 8

33.46 N
146.39 W

81 NM made good - 1486 to go to Sitka

Although 81 miles doesn't seem like a very long way, we got a lot accomplished in the last 24 hours. To begin with, although we made 81 miles to our destination, we actually sailed a further distance as we wanted to make easting to get past that pesky front that was dogging us. And we did that! Yesterday at lunch we shut down the engine and were able to sail in light south east winds (about 10 knots) and relatively calm seas all through the afternoon and night. This morning the wind picked up another five knots and we are able to sail wing on wing directly on a track to Sitka. Long may it continue! Doug suggests that the weather predictions indicate we may be able to continue in this manner for the next few days. We aren't going fast - 4.5 knots - but we are going, and we are going in the right direction.

We both got good rest last night and are refreshed and positive today. A good washing up with hot water from the engine running was icing on the cake. We are enjoying sitting in the cockpit as the air is still warm, the sun is shining and the seas are still turquoise. Last night I watched a half moon set into the misty distant clouds and the stars were bright enough to sparkle across the water - very special moments.

Unfortunately, this spectacular natural beauty is marred by the amazing amount of plastic and trash we continue to see floating by. This morning Doug saw a mess of fishing lines, floats and plastic all balled up and almost the size of Ka'sala. Most of the time it is a continual progression of water bottles, jerry cans, plastic floats, bits and pieces of coloured plastic from who knows what origin. It is so terrible to see and makes me really question my use of any kind of plastic. I know it is a necessary evil - for example, Ka'sala is a plastic boat, our electronic equipment is made from plastic, etc. So maybe the point here is to be mindful of the plastic we use, how we use it and how we dispose of it. Okay, rant over, but I will be making my yoghurt in a crockpot when I get home! (Though I don't suppose I will tend a cow to avoid the plastic milk jug!)

Happy Solstice! May your summer be wonderful!

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Wednesday, June 20 - Day 7

32.34 N
148.44 W

76 NM to the good - 1567 to go to Sitka

We've been at sea a week now, though it seems to me like we have been here for a very long time. We started off with great winds and speeds and have slowed right down. We are motoring and have been doing so since yesterday afternoon. We found ourselves with no wind and decided to take the gamble to catch them where they were predicted to be. The seas have been rolly but not high. We have passed in and out of fog and sunshine. The water temperature has dropped to 20 degrees, but the air is warm, and we are beginning to pick up light winds coming from the southeast. These are what we need to sail north. Doug has decided we shall use the drifter to try to make as much northing as we can with 10 knots of wind or less behind us. We are fine to take it slower (though frustrating) because we have plenty of water and plenty of food. As for diesel consumption - we have about 5 days worth aboard and we will have used one of those days.

With the engine on we are enjoying things like totally charged batteries, which means, in turn, a cold fridge, being able to use all our electronic toys, watch movies, have hot water. On the negative side, our hearing has dulled with the consistent throb of the engine. Learning how to be patient may be good for us!

We are starting to notice more and more trash in the ocean. We can't stick our head out without seeing a piece of plastic float by. It may be the size of a quarter, or as big as a crate, or a pop bottle. I hate to think where all this stuff comes to rest because it sure doesn't sink!

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Tuesday, June 19 - Day 6

31 42 N
150 30 W

60 NM made good to Sitka - 1643 to go

We didn't do so well on Day 6. The rain we had the night before was our indication that the quasi stationary front that has been dogging us, passed over us. As a result, late yesterday morning we went from confused winds and seas to strong winds and seas coming at us from the north. We had no choice but to bear off on a heading of 90 true. Very soon we had rolled away the jib, hoisted the staysail and double reefed the main. We were relatively comfortable, but it was very noisy and we were quite frustrated that we would have to endure these conditions for little gain. However, as the night progressed, the winds gradually became quite light and by morning we found ourselves becalmed, bobbing around in a rolly sea. Then the sun broke through the fog.

What to do? Doug went back to his weather analysis using weather faxes from NOAA and grib files and postulated that if we were to motor ENE for the next 6 hours, we might actually be able to get back into the southern winds coming off the front in conjunction with the high to the east of us. If we could do that, there would be a very likely possibility of having those winds driving us in the northerly direction we needed to go. If we could not find those winds, we could be wallowing around in these unsettled conditions until the front disappates, or worse, be stuck in the middle of a windless high. (When you do a long passage like this one, no wind is actually worse than too much wind because it means you are going nowhere and using up your resources). We are crossing fingers and toes that the plan works.

Otherwise, the muffins I baked yesterday did take some of the dampness out of the inside of the boat and the little bit of sun we had this morning helped as well. We are in good spirits and comfortable and in the groove!

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Monday, June 18 - Day 5

31.25 N
152.05 W

114 NM, 637 made good and 1703 NM to go!

We've had a rainy night and experienced more rain in the last 24 hours than we have in the last year! I suppose we had better get used to it again as we are returning to the Pacific Northwest! It is a gentle introduction for, although it is wet, it is warm. Although I wear my wet weather gear on watch, I am in my bare feet. I don't think I will be able to that for much longer!

We continue with the wind from the southeast on our quarter. During the night it was quite gusty (15 - 25 knots) and we were up and down from the cockpit reefing/unreefing sails and adjusting the self steering device. It is fairly damp and humid in the cabin today so in a little while I will bake another pan of muffins to dry things out a bit. We don't actually have a wet locker, so we transfer jackets to drip in the head, then hang from the bar in the main salon. Not the tidy Ka'sala we are used to by far!

We seem to be stuck under the quasi stationary front which brings these wet conditions. We will likely be staying in them until it dissipates sometime over the next couple days. Then? We aren't sure, but hope we can connect with the western side of the high so we can go more northerly in dryer conditions.

Fresh stores seem to have stabilized. I have gotten rid of everything that spoiled quickly, but still have plenty of apples and oranges, as well as pineapple and a melon. When that's done we have a case of fruit cocktail and lots of dried fruit. My larder is stocked with tins of vegetables that I can easily add to anything I make. However, I was surprised to find some of my long life milk had solidified and there was a weevil or two in the whole wheat flour!! (more protein - haha!)

All is well with the soggy sailors!

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Sunday, June 17 - Day 4

29.53N
154.38W

121 NM covered, 1817 to go!

Even though we have only completed day 4, the days are beginning to blend together and the routines are seeming normal. In the last 24 hours we have continued with 15 knots from the southeast, sailing on a beam reach on 045 true at 6 knots. That could change in the next 24 hours as a front coming from the west may overtake us, bringing lighter, more northerly winds. So far we have managed to stay ahead of the front but the barometer is slowly dropping which is not a good sign. We wish we could be a few degrees farther east at the moment so we could continue traveling northeast with the high. We will just take it one day at a time. So we download weather faxes and grib wind reports and trim the sails and wait to see the outcome. The last couple days have been overcast and humid, but cooler. The sky is grey and the seas are grey. We've had regular rain showers - all associated with the slow moving front.

Our spirits are good, we are comfortable and we are on our way home!

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Saturday, June 16: Day 3

29.00 N
155.47 W

131 nautical miles on Day 3, for a total of 402 and 1938 to go!

We have been making good time and the conditions continue in our favour. We are making a bit more easting than we had at first planned, but because of a slow moving front to the west of us, have decided to stay to the east of our track and in the favourable winds. Right now we are beam reaching and averaging 6.5 knots in approximately 20 knots of wind from the south east. Based on weather information Doug has decided we should stay on this course, if we can, for the next several days.

I think we are into the passage making routine again. The watches seem to come naturally and I am feeling a little more relaxed. I'm reading a book now and last night I watched a film. I made a quiche yesterday and tonight I will try for pizza. We've decided muffins on night watch beat granola bars any day!

On Doug's watch this morning a good sized squall bore down on us bringing stronger winds and a good dousing of rain. A flying fish managed to get itself entangled in one of the mainsail reefs and couldn't be freed until later in the morning, poor thing. Other than that - no wild life, and no other boats.

I'm trying to concentrate on the passage on a day by day basis and not think too much of life once we arrive. Time seems to move quicker that way, though we have done exceedingly well for three days at sea!

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Friday, June 15: Day 2

27.16 N
157.14W

146 nautical miles covered, 271 in total - 2069 to go

Conditions remained fairly steady over Day 2, with winds and seas moderating slightly. We are being helped along by a current that seems to be up to one knot at times - lovely! It is quite warm and humid, and the skies are overcast. There are squalls around and we are kind of hoping we may see one pass overhead to cool things down, and wash the salt off Ka'sala, as the decks and cockpit are greasy with it. Doug predicts these conditions to persist for the next 24 hours or so.

To the Northwest is a cold front associated with a frontal low moving away from us, and the Pacific High is generating winds from the southeast. We are hoping to keep these winds on our starboard quarter and sail more or less north.

Our ideal course is the great circle route which currently is 020 degrees true to Sitka (57 05N 135 23W)- meaning it is the most direct route - the way the gull flies. At the moment, we are just to the east of it and tracking about 030 T to keep a good angle on the wind. We are sailing along averaging about 5.5 knots. I am beginning to think of 020 N as HWY20 to Alaska and, all going well, we will be able to stay on it with few diversions.

Last evening a very large seabird decided to roost on our bow and spent the whole night. What a magnificent creature! It was the size of a small turkey with pristine white feathers trimmed in black. Below its bright black eyes was a long powder blue beak and its webbed feet were a brilliant orange. No. I am not making this up. I took pictures. Steve will know what kind of bird this is!

The bananas aren't doing very well and some of them fell victim to muffins this morning. We will appreciate them on our night watches! Overall the fresh produce does not seem to be doing as well as the stuff I had bought in Mexico. I think this is because most of it was refrigerated and if you can't keep it that way, it quickly rots. Not to worry, though, when the fresh is finished, we have plenty of dried and canned stores.

Not quite back into the routine yet, but close.

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Thursday, June 14 - Kauai to Alaska: Day 1

25.21N
158.48W

125 nautical miles, only 2215 left to go to Sitka!

We left Hanalei Bay yesterday morning at approximately 7am. Soon as we had cleared the bay we were into moderate trade winds blowing a steady 20 knots from the East. So we bore off and sailed north on a beam reach through the rough seas. As the night progressed, the wind veered, and we were able to sail more comfortably. By this morning, the winds had dropped to 15 knots and the seas also calmed down. We were then able to sail close reaching on our course of 020 True. We hope to continue to be able to make easting, while still progressing northwards over the next few days. There is a low pressure system to the northwest of us bringing strong winds, but we should be able to avoid them if we stay to the east of our track. The Pacific High is well defined to the north east of us and we are hoping to ride north on its clockwise winds.

We keep track of our progress twice a day: at 0300 UTC (which is 5pm Hawaii time) and 1500 UTC (5am local time) to correspond with our check in with the Pacific Seafarer's Net at 0300 UTC. As a result, although I have posted a distance of 125 NM in our first day, it is actually in our first 22 hours - this distance is also miles made good on our track.

I know the last two paragraphs were technical, but I know some of you enjoy that stuff. As far as crew wellness is concerned, we are both happy to finally be on our way. Doug is enjoying the planning and strategizing and I am just working at keeping my anxieties under control! It is beautiful out here! The sky and seas are torquoise blue. It's 30 degrees and the water temperature is 25 degrees. Ka'sala is sailing along beautifully considering the conditions. We have lots of food, water and diesel. We are healthy (well, maybe sore shoulders and a sore back) and we are closing the circle of our sailing dream. Who could ask for anything more?

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Hanalei Bay

22.20 N

159.56 W

We arrived in Hanalei Bay from Honolulu at 9am on Sunday morning (June 10) after close reaching through 25 knot trade winds.  Not fun - especially on the first day out – but we made it through.  The reward is to be anchored in this gorgeous place on the northern shore of Kauai.  To the west of us is a ridge of steep mountains, lush green with jungle and cascading waterfalls.  

Ka'sala is the last boat on the right

At the head of the bay is two miles of pristine white beach with the funky village of Hanalei behind.  

To the east are a small river and a long pier – once the loading point for the rice that used to be exported from here.  

The water in the bay is turquoise blue and 25 degrees.  There are not many tourists and there is no hustle and bustle.  What a lovely way to relax for a few days before continuing on our northern passage!

Ka'sala is mid left

Yesterday we launched our kayaks to explore the river.  As we entered we noticed enormous bushes, at least 20 feet high, covered with yellow hibiscus-looking flowers.  

Floating along the river’s surface were similar flowers, but these were coral in colour.  

The bushes gave way to trees, grasses and other vegetation, most of which I have never seen before, giving it a very other worldly appearance.  We followed it for about 3 miles when it narrowed, and abruptly ended in a grove of bamboo.  

Along the way we could hear the sounds of strange insects and birds on the riverbanks, but only saw an odd red-billed duck-like creature and a small turtle.

We paddled back out to the bay, beached our kayaks and strolled into the village.  There is a small central core of quaint shops, cafes and markets and we found an unusual place to have lunch in a classroom of the old school.  

Afterward we strolled up and down the 2 mile, powder sand beach, enjoying the incredible mountain views, before returning to Ka’sala.

This place is a little wild.  The weather is constantly changing.  One minute we are in brilliant sunshine, the next in misty rain, followed by a rainbow. 

Ka'sala at anchor at Hanalei Bay

Outrigger canoes 

The sunsets are spectacular and the light and clouds that play along the mountain ridges are amazing to watch. 

It has been windy with over 20 knots gusting through the anchorage during the day – no doubt a result of the strong trades and the mountainous landscape.

In addition to exploring this place we have also completed all the last minute details to get Ka’sala ready for her next long passage.  Our bumpy 24 hour trip here pointed out to us a few things that needed stowing! We are now more than ready to go and will leave right after breakfast tomorrow (June 13). The trade winds are supposed to moderate, so we hope our first few days won’t be as rough as the passage here.  The projected weather forecast continues to look positive for the next week or so and we can only hope that it continues for us for all the 2430 nautical miles to Alaska!

Overview of Hanalei Bay - borrowed from the internet