San Diego

San Diego has been good to us.  We have been tucked up in a very nice marina that provides all the services a cruiser could need and then some – swimming pool and Jacuzzi, clean washrooms with free showers, a six machine laundry, security and garbage disposal, electricity, internet and potable water – all in a lovely setting and central location.

There is a terrific library where I was able to trade for some really good books.   Ironically, Harbour Island West Marina, costs the same as the bare-bones harbour police dock – the traditional place for cruisers to stay when they are transiting to Mexico.

The pool was a little chilly, but the Jacuzzi in the shade was a delightful place to soak the bones after a long bicycle ride!

Almost every day the sun has been shining and the temperatures have been in the 70’s.  We have seen just one 24 hour period of rain and high winds.  Nietzsche was wrong when he said: “nothing so vexes the soul as an endless succession of sunny days” for we have been enjoying every one!

City skyline in front of the marina - notice that Doug is looking at a modern air craft carrier in for refit in the distance (USS Carl Vinson)

In our first few days we spent a fair amount of time on Shelter Island in and out of the chandleries, purchasing items we need and may have difficulty finding in Mexico.  The area is truly boating central and offers pretty much anything a yachtie needs.  Although we have been riding our bicycles there for the little things, we launched the dinghy to bring over our propane tanks and dive tank for refilling.  We had one of our sail covers repaired.  We feel Ka’sala is now ready to go!

Ka'sala is hidden in a forest of masts at Harbour Island West Marina

On other days, we have ridden our bicycles into the city to tour around, do some shopping and visit museums.  Although there is a shared bicycle path that runs along the harbour, we have found this city to be way less bicycle friendly than any other place we have stopped down the coast.  Any time we have wanted to get someplace that was not along the water, we have had to battle traffic or ride on sidewalks. It's not much fun to be in a bicycle lane with traffic going 50 miles an hour beside you.  One day I even had a run in with an RV that was parked into the sidewalk.  Something on my bike caught its rear end and I toppled over, scraping elbow, hip and knee – sore, but quickly healed and a reminder to pay attention!!

A highlight for both of us was visiting the Maritime Museum and the USS Midway Museum.  The Maritime Museum was probably the best one I have ever seen and as a sailor, I’ve seen my share!

In addition to exhibits and displays, there are hundreds of expertly created model ships showing the evolution of sailing and shipping over the centuries.  There are many boats that one can visit.  From the Star of India – the last working sailing ship- to recreations of a Spanish galleon, a British frigate (used in the Russell Crowe film “Master and Commander”, to luxury turn-of-the-20^th century wooden yachts, a historic San Diego harbour pilot boat and a military river boat which saw action in Vietnam, a gorgeous art nouveaux ferry from San Francisco, as well as two submarines – an older, enormous Russian one and a smaller, more modern, American one.  Each boat was almost entirely accessible to the visitor and we spent over several hours poring over them.

Doug takes the helm of the Californian

Transom of British Frigate used in Master and Commander

This one is for you Darlene

Remake of the Spanish Galleon Cabrillo sailed when he first landed in present day San Diego

At the periscope of the USS Dolphin

Below decks on the Russian submarine

In front of the conning tower of the Russian submarine

Okay, who exactly has the helm of the Star of India?

On another day we went to see the USS Midway, a US air craft carrier launched in 1945 and decommissioned in 1992.  

Aerial view of the USS Midway Museum

Guide to viewing the ship

When it was built, it was the largest ship in the world – the first one too large to fit through the Panama Canal.  It saw extensive service in Vietnam and its last foray was Desert Storm.  This enormous ship is well worth exploring and impossible to see in just one day.  We started on the hanger deck where there were many static displays of airplanes and jets associated with the history of the ship, as well as many exhibits explaining its past.  There were films, videos, an audio tour as well as hands-on opportunities such as simulators, cockpits and jumpseats.  

Remember these guys from "Fly into the Danger Zone"?  Think Top Gun!

We spent a good deal of time below decks touring through the many passages and rooms that the 4500+ crewmembers lived in – from their mess halls and quarters, the chapel, all the service areas such as laundry, and post office.   All along the way were photographs, quotations, explanations and displays. 

It was all absolutely fascinating and we just didn’t have the time to see it all and do it justice.  And that was before we got on to the flight deck, housing the control tower and bristling with the various fighter jets and helicopters that saw service on this incredible vessel. 

View to the bow of this enormous vessel - the city of San Diego in the background

Throughout the ship were volunteers, most, if not all, retired naval men who would answer questions or give briefings.  We listened to fascinating accounts from retired pilots of landing and taking off the carrier, as well as a guided tour of the bridge.  

Looking to the stern from the command tower

As much as we wanted to stay and learn more, by the end of the day we were exhausted and it was all we could do to bike home to Ka’sala. (Well, we did stop at Stones Brewhouse along the way!)

Love that IPA!

On our last full day in San Diego we bicycled over to Mission Bay, just north of San Diego proper.  This is an enormous area of bays and beaches, the home of Seaworld.  Although we didn’t visit it, we did explore the various paved ways along the front of lovely beach houses and cottages.  Beach volleyball is the name of the sport here and there were lots of young people out walking, sunbathing on the beach and in the cafes.

Gorgeous Mission Bay

We have now completed all our provisioning and just have a few odds and ends left to do before we check out of the USA on Monday morning.  We’ve had a wonderful time on the American west coast these last three months.  We have really appreciated the kindness and support we have been shown by just about everyone we have met.  It is hard for us to believe that this chapter is now drawing to a close.  After an overnight passage on Monday, we will begin our next big adventure in Mexico.  

This fellow spent some time watching us one evening when we were in the cockpit - what kind of bird is he, Steve?

Catalina Island

Marina Del Rey is a lot like the Eagles “Hotel California” – you can check in any time you want, but you can never leave!  We had a hard time departing this welcoming place and stayed a day longer than planned.  There is a certain ennui that sets in when you have been in one place for a while and the living is easy.  It had taken us two days to get ready to sail again and we were tired.  So we took the morning of the extra day and bicycled back down the beach past the Santa Monica Pier to the end of the trail at Pacific Palisades. 

On the Santa Monica Pier with Pacific Pallisades in the distance

  In the afternoon we scrubbed Ka’sala- as her decks had accumulated a greasy black film from LA smog fallout.  Late afternoon we met with Michael and other members of the PMYC for a farewell beverage.  The next morning we were off the dock by 8am, assisted by Luigi and Michael.  I looked up at the club’s big plate glass windows, as we motored out the fairway,  to see the morning members give enormous “bon voyage” waves. That brought a lump to my throat!  We are indebted to Michael M., who looked after us our entire stay, taking care of all our needs and becoming a good friend. 

Chef Michael after a lovely Sea Bass dinner

Our destination was Catalina Island.  The skies were clear, the sun warm as we sailed on a close reach in 10 knots of wind.  A couple of times we had to motor for a while as the wind dropped off, but all in all, it was a delightful passage.  We sailed into Isthmus Cove about 3:30 pm and picked up one of the 257 moorings that have been installed in the bay. 

Michael had suggested we get as close to the “west wall” as possible and we were able to get one 4 over in “C” line.  

Dawn illuminates the "West Wall" in Isthmus Cove

The off season deal here is that you pay for three nights and get a week free.  You can move around to any of their 750 moorings around the island, except Avalon Harbour, because it is managed by another company.  Although you can anchor in many places with permission, they tend to be deep and exposed.

Ka'sala is moored third from the hill in the front line - village of Two Harbours in the background

To say Catalina Island is stunning is an understatement.  As you approach, the craggy orange tinted, steep sided, gully-wrinkled hillsides shimmer.  The water is unbelievably clear and a dramatic shade of light emerald.  

Emerald green water - you can see the lines of the mooring bouys right to the bottom

We could easily see the moorings anchored twenty some feet under our keel.  Schools of mackerel and brilliant orange California Garibaldi (which look like an oversized goldfish), glided by. 

California Garibaldi

We had been told there were recent great white shark sightings, but we couldn’t imagine this enormous creature penetrating the moorings.  At the head of the Isthmus is a natural pebble beach and a tiny village with a bar/cafe and general store.  Because the island runs east/west, and the sides of the hills are so steep, the sun disappeared by 4pm, leaving behind a long lingering dusk.  We watched the sky fade from sapphire blue to aquamarine, lavender and rose, with a final lemon green smudge behind tall palm trees as the stars began to glitter and appear across the night sky. Ka’sala bobbed gently in the swell and we enjoyed a lovely dinner in the cockpit, under the glow of lantern light, with a blanket over our knees.

Textured coastline of Catalina

The next day we left our dinghy at the pier and explored the Two Harbours area by foot.  In addition to the cafe and store, there are $2 showers, laundry and flush toilets.  There are a number of small private homes and rental units, as well as a dive shop (which also rents bicycles, kayaks and paddleboards), visitor information centre and sheriff’s office.  We met friendly Sheriff Chad who told us a little about the place.  We walked over to the other side of the Isthmus to Catalina Harbour – considered one of two all weather safe anchorages in Southern California – then doubled back to hike the road overlooking the anchorage and several other coves, equally, if not more, stunning than the one we were in.  

Entrance to Catalina Harbour

Breathtaking Cherry Cove - we could see the bottom from our vantage point high on the hill

This was dusty work, rewarded with a refreshing swim when we returned to Ka’sala.  The clear water was 21 degrees!

Steep hills surround the harbours

That afternoon I launched my kayak and paddled all around the area.  On the eastern side is Fisherman’s Cove where the University of Southern California has a marine institute.  The waters nearby are a marine sanctuary and, according to Sheriff Chad, a great place to dive and snorkel as the fish “know” they can’t be hunted.  I only saw a handful of Garibaldi from the kayak.  Along the rocky shoreline were small caves and caverns carved into the bluffs which had interesting striations of grey, orange and white.  Large crane-like birds nested nearby and the surf gently lifted the kayak as I skimmed by. 

Fisherman's Cove and the Wrigley Institute in the distance

Our second night in the anchorage was quite bumpy and in the morning we heard that a Santa Ana was predicted to blow in the afternoon.  A small craft warning was in effect.  We had already decided we would take advantage of the “deal” and explore other anchorages, so thought we would move around to Catalina Harbour a day earlier.  Doug also wanted to dive on Ka’sala to replace the zinc on the prop.  We only enjoyed a brief interlude of sailing when we rounded “Land’s End”, but were most enthralled by the natural, rough beauty of the island.

Catalina Harbour, foreground, Isthmus Harbour on the other side, Palos Verdes, on the mainland, in the far distance

“Cat” Harbour lacks the beautiful setting and crystalline waters of the Isthmus side, but the water is absolutely flat. 

Cat Harbour

It appears to be the “service” side of the island, but it is still lovely and we continued to enjoy the warm, sunny days and cool, starry nights.  The wind did pick up and williwawed over the steep hills, but we were snug in the harbour. 

Sunset in Cat Harbour

On our second day in Cat Harbour we decided to go for a hike up into the hills.  There is a challenging 37+ mile trail that runs the entire length of Catalina Island.  Hikers usually take four days to do the trip, camping along the way at designated spots.

Two Harbours is the skinny bit, we hiked to the top of the highest bit and back

Unknowingly, we headed up the steepest and most challenging part of the walk to its highest point at 1750 feet. 

On the ridge at the top, trail continues on to Lands End

The wide trail climbed almost vertically through cactus, scrub and dried grasses to a most stunning view. 

Looking toward Los Angeles from the top

It would have been lovely to continue, but we headed back down for a hot shower and a cold one in the Two Harbours Village.

View of Cat Harbour coming down the mountain

We decided we would leave Catalina and sail directly to San Diego, 85 nautical miles away.  We calculate our speed/distance at 5 nautical miles an hour, so realized we would not be able to make this entire passage in daylight hours.  As a result, we left Wednesday, November 11, at 3pm with a smart afternoon wind from the northwest.   We continued on through the night as the wind gradually shifted to the northeast, sailing almost the entire way averaging five knots.  We arrived in San Diego about 8am the following morning and were in our slip at Harbour Island West Marina by 9.  We will be in San Diego for a week or more as we complete our final preparations for Mexico.  

Goodbye Catalina!

Marina Del Rey, Los Angeles

Finally, a lovely sail!  We left Oxnard under favourable conditions right after breakfast.  As we exited the breakwater, we caught a Northwest wind that carried us all the way to Marina Del Rey some 30 miles to the southeast.  The wind ranged from 15 to 25 knots with occasional gust to 30 throughout the day as we made several sail changes and adjustments.  Just for fun, we hand steeried for most of the way.  The seas were relatively flat, the sun shone, we saw a whale come up for air and descend again to the depths.  We entered the Del Rey breakwater and into the largest man-made boat basin in the world, just after 5pm, and motored into our assigned berth at the Pacific Mariner’s Club.

We are in D basin - the one with the beach at the end in the upper right corner

We were greeted by Rex, a member we had met the last time we were here five years ago.  The club had not changed much – still very accommodating and friendly with all the services close to hand that sailors on a transient yacht could need. 

The guest dock is right in front of the club - members call it the "fishbowl"

Our first day here we unpacked the bicycles and headed out to find some fresh provisions.  We realized almost immediately that LA is “car” town - few, if any bicycle paths and lots of automobiles with determined drivers.  We threaded our way along sidewalks and also realized that LA has few pedestrians!  We were able to load up our baskets and return unscathed, but realized we would need to stick to the ocean walkways if we wanted to ride. 

Posted in a window on Venice Beach

That afternoon we pointed them to Venice Beach and rode all the way to the Santa Monica Pier where plenty of tourists were taking advantage of the carnival rides that are permanently there.

Midway at Santa Monica Pier

Not much had changed along this strip still covered with tacky tourist shops selling edgy T shirts and medicinal marijuana.  What I did notice, were more young homeless people, wrapped up in their ragged blankets against the sun and stares of passersby, their meagre possessions tucked under their shaggy heads or clutched in their boney hands.  It was a heart breaking sight to see those broken dreams littering the beach while the more affluent gawked.

Homeless in Venice Beach

Next day we were on the bikes again.  This time, we headed south, across the channel on a double bike lane running along the beach all the way to Paso Verdes,  thirty or so miles in the distance. 

Great riding along the beach - Santa Monica in the far distance - note airplane

We rode along for a few miles until just after the airport, watching airplanes ascending, two by two, every few minutes, destined for all parts of the world.  There were hardly any people on the beach and we picked our way through drifting sand and scattered palm branches that had been tossed around in the high dry winds we had been experiencing since we arrived. 

Lifeguard stations on the deserted beach

We turned around just after a parking lot campsite where we had stayed a couple times in our truck/camper on our winter vacation California forays fifteen years before.

Gorgeous!

Saturday was Halloween and the PMC were hosting a costume party.  We spent a few hours thinking up ideas then foraging around dollar and drug stores for accessories.  We scored a clown and an afro wig, a red ball nose and a fuchsia feather boa.  Here is the result:

We had a lot of fun meeting many new people, dancing up a storm to an excellent live band and enjoying a big feed of tacos.  One of the highlights of the evening was having our tarot read by a fortune teller.  We each drew two cards and, of course, the results were positive and somewhat insightful.   I later looked up the interpretation of our cards on the internet which seemed to confirm our readings.

Last night we join the Pacific Mariners again for their Monday Night Football.  One of the members takes on a big dinner to feed the fans each week and we had a delicious feed of smothered pork chops with noodles.  We remembered this fondly from our last visit and we weren't disappointed..

We plan to leave here on Thursday morning for Catalina Island.  There are a number of anchorages we can take advantage of and we have been getting a lot of advice from the locals.  Most of the bays and coves have moorings that require payment.  At this time of year sailors must be aware of the potential for the strong Santa Ana winds which turn the anchorages into lee shores.  The time we stay there will be totally dependent on the weather, but we are hoping to visit a few bays before moving on to San Diego and our last stop in the US before making the passage to Mexico.

An even better arial view showing Vencie Beach to the south and Playa Del Ray to the north of Marina Del Rey